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Wings of Desire 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Morris Hershoff, Leah Macaluso, 1998
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on May 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

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  • Description 

    This is referred to as "The Awakening" in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide.

    This is a long pitch with several hard sections. On the easier climbing, the bolts are further apart to keep you focused.

    Approach: See Richard Rossiter's site for the approach to Sleeping

    At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's Kama Sutra, 10d. Start 8' right of this tree. Climb the ceiling at about 5.10, angle right, and then make some hard thin moves back left at the 4th bolt across a steep slab. The 5th bolt is hidden in the dish above. Don't move right at this steep slab. The silver bolts to the right are MLK. Angle left on easy rock below some serious moss and then up a steep slab with a short hard section. Continue up an easier slab at about 5.9 connecting a series of rounded, right-facing flakes to a sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.


    16 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor. A few long slings would be useful. The rope gets pretty heavy near the top due to rope drag. Two ropes to rappel.

    Comments on Wings of Desire Add Comment
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    By brent pohlmann
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Aug 4, 2004

    Great route. Take the advice on using the long runners down low. Found myself yelling at my belayer for slack at the thin crux clip, when really I screwed up!! A little dirty near the top, so watch the feet. Otherwise a great route.
    By Bruce Pech
    Aug 6, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Fun with several hard moves -- mostly high steps -- betwen the 7th bolt and the anchors. Less fun but more exciting if: (1) you get suckered into climbing straight up at the 5th bolt and, after falling off the crux of MLK twice, realize you're off route and have to downclimb to the 5th bolt to continue; and (2) only have one 60m rope and have to rap 40' to the MLK anchors and then 100' to the ledge in a torrential rain and hail storm.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 25, 2009

    I thought this was a great, long route with several thin slabby crux moves. Despite the warnings, I too ended up on MLK for a couple of bolts and had to traverse back. To stay on Wings, you have to go through a runout mossy section to an invisible bolt above. Not obvious at all. Take a lot of draws.
    By slim
    Sep 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Didn't see the 5th bolt "hidden in a dish" (who the F#$% hides a bolt in a dish?) and found the poorly protected, slippery move up and right pretty scary. After climbing the easy section below, which had bolts every 3 feet (usually with good cracks nearby) the potential groundfall on the slippery crux kind of formed my opinion of this route.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Oct 1, 2012

    Words of advice - a single 70 meter rope will NOT get you back to the ground.
    By Moritz B.
    Aug 25, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    This route felt really hard to me. Maybe I was missing something, but it felt more like 11d than 11b to me. The section between the 7th and 9th bolt is stupid hard. It is a little dirty on some parts, too. The run-outs aren´t that bad. You could eliminate them by bringing some Aliens with you.
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Aug 27, 2017
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    IMHO...the start is fun, the route is great, I saw no groundfall potential whatsoever, the route is 11b as advertised. This is a giant mega-pitch with 80% of the climbing at the grade. Periodic semi-rests, variety of technique. When's the last time you did 160 feet of continuous 11 climbing? We did 2 single rope raps to MLK then ground. BOOOOOYah! LOVE it!

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