REI Community
Wheeler-Newsome Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Strewn Masters of Gore T,S 
Tick Fever T 
Wing Nut T 

Wing Nut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong & Karin Budding
Page Views: 2,318
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The late Steve Carruthers (1980's) passing the fle...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is the next climbable crack to the right of Tick Fever. Two beginnings exist, but I only know the one shared with the Start of Strewn Masters.Head up and left under a roof about 10 feet of the ground using plenty of features. Plug a large piece in the roof with a runner then dance left to a thin crack with flexy things here and there. Work your way carefully up to flexy block to find solid rock above it. From the block to the seam above is the crux, fingers divided here and there with a hand, but the climbing remains pumpy until the end. The climb has been extended a bit to add a fun over hanging hand crack to the chains.


Cams up to 4" with several TCu-sized pieces and nuts.

Photos of Wing Nut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Court enjoying the upper less strenuously weird se...
Court enjoying the upper less strenuously weird se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wing Nut is the crack in the middle, Strewn Master...
BETA PHOTO: Wing Nut is the crack in the middle, Strewn Master...

Comments on Wing Nut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Seth Shaw drug me up this. He made it look easy. Quiet burly.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 19, 2011

Seth was quiet and burly indeed. Miss him.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 8, 2012

Considerably harder than Tick Fever. The start shared with Strewn Masters is excellent, albiet there is no/bad pro for the first 15 feet till you reach the roof, and the climbing isn't 5.7. The 2nd start heads up the lower angle slab where a bolt and a purple tcu in a shallow crack protect the thin passage to the crack proper. The crack itself protects well though not straightforward on the lower section, adding to the pump. Bring doubles from .3-1 camalot and a set of nuts(mandatory!)with a critical purple tcu if you do the slab start. The final moves out the hand crack are awesome, ending at a gigantic jug flake. Don't bother going to the 2nd set of anchors. 15 feet of sharp, gravely fist crack isn't worth the rope drag you'll create while lowering.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 2, 2013

Indeed, burly indeed. The start is a bit unnerving as you make your way to the roof. No pro, not super easy climbing, and a really bad landing. Once you make it around the roof to the crack proper, the real business is the first 15 feet or so of steep climbing. Above that, a decent rest can be had, and expect hard 5.10 from there to the chains. Mostly fingery TCU sizes and a few bigger cams to 3". Med-large nuts would work really well on this route, as there are lots of perfectly-oriented constrictions. The climbing is fun to the second set of chains (not fists, and not exfoliating when I did it), but spencer is right that the rope drag from up there is awful.
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Sep 8, 2017

The direct start protects well with a long sling for the bolt and a few small offset cams. Significantly better climbing than the head scumming under roof traverse in.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About