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Wing Feather 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brant Didden, Peter Cassam, 8/1993
Page Views: 2,168
Submitted By: Aaron Liebling on Sep 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Shot from the base.


An excellent steep moderate. The climbing is straightforward, though route finding can be less clear after the obvious crack on the first pitch.

Pro is generally good, assuming one is comfortable with slung knobs as pro on easy climbing.

P1 - 5.8 - 60m - Follow the obvious cracks up the buttress. when they run out, knobs lead up and left to a comfortable alcove with chain anchors.

P2 - 5.8 - 60m - Lead out directly left and proceed up on endless knobs. There are a few cracks available and eventually a bolt will be encountered. Go left from the bolt over a steep bulge and then follow a right facing corner/crack up to a chain anchor on a decent ledge.

P3 - 5.8 - 60m - A bouldery start out right to a high bolt. Tending right along knobs, head towards a short crack (NOT left along the large blocks). Climb more knobs past a bolt and up another right facing crack and belay on gear where convenient (a number of decent stances are available).

P4 - 5.6 - 20m - Climb easy slab to the right and either continue up to the summit (easy slab, but poor/no pro and face can be mossy/slick) or find an easy 10' downclimb on to a ledge on the right face and proceed up to a belay on boulders. If on the summit, perform a very short (~15') rap to the boulders.

From the boulders, proceed up easy 3rd class to the true summit.


Rap possible with a 70m or two shorter ropes. From the summit, head climber's left to a rap anchor. Rap to the large overgrown ledge and head across it to another set of chains. Four more raps (all bolts/chains except for one slung tree) lead back to the ground through the middle of the Great Depression.


This route splits the buttress on the right side of the Great Depression.


Doubles to 3", slung knobs

Photos of Wing Feather Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wing Feather
BETA PHOTO: Wing Feather
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Betsy Grant high on fantastic P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Betsy Grant on P1, Wing Feather
Betsy Grant on P1, Wing Feather
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on the Shuteye mega classic, Wing Fe...
Mike Arechiga on the Shuteye mega classic, Wing Fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chickenheads galore!
Chickenheads galore!
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Wingfeather
Climbers on Wingfeather
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo To Wing Feather
BETA PHOTO: Topo To Wing Feather

Comments on Wing Feather Add Comment
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By C Brooks
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 6, 2015

Amazing climb, one of the best of its grade that I have ever done. Go and climb it! 2nd pitch was nebulous, stay right after the initial chicken heads, past the bolt and up the steep bulge. Cruiser crack to a ledge after that.
Bring LOTS of slings, I had 12 and wished I had a couple more

You can also walk off. A bit of a bush-bash but only took us about 20 minutes
By Jeff Scheuerell
Oct 6, 2015

Gray is full of amazing climbs!
By Dusty Cams
Sep 26, 2016

Fantastic Climb, a few notes:

First pitch is a full 60m, having a double set here was helpful if you are not comfortable with very long runouts

Second pitch is not a full 60m, more like 45-50. Regarding the "go left from bolt/steep bulge/right facing corner/crack" in the route description and guide book, don't go too far left, (as there is a steep bulge /right facing corner/crack) or you will be in 9+ territory up to the belay (as my partner did)--if you find your self climbing over the left edge/roof of the buttress, you've gone to far left of the bolt.

Third pitch: the moves below the 2nd bolt are a bit tricky, then easy after the bolt--seemed like strange bolt placement, but glad it was there either way.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 30, 2017

Yeah, what Dusty Cams said. On pitch 2 step left off the belay and then go straight up. The bolt is 35m up and then after it you barely trend left if you want to sink a cam in before pulling the bulge. The guide book made it sound as if you want to keep trending left. Do not do that.
By Ney Grant
From: Pollock Pines, CA
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great, great, classic climb.

Even after some helpful comments, still had trouble on P2. Here are the main takeaways:
The bolt on P2 is high up, 30M.
The bolt is at the base of the steep bulge (fantastic to climb, BTW), but not on the left side. Stay right of the blank section while moving up to the bulge, and you'll find the bolt. I climb up left, finally saw the bolt way to the right, downclimbed, traversed and moved up to it.

It felt like a few 5.9 moves were on the climb. The "bouldery" start of P3, especially if you are short, felt tough but maybe you can move down and around. Not a serious fall there anyway as you are right next to the belay.

As mentioned above the moves below the second bolt on P3 seemed harder than 5.8, which is a little strange because the bolt above is in easier terrain.

Overall, fantastic.

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