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Great Depression
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Wing Feather T 

Wing Feather 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brant Didden, Peter Cassam, 8/1993
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: aliebling on Sep 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Shot from the base.

Description 

An excellent steep moderate. The climbing is straightforward, though route finding can be less clear after the obvious crack on the first pitch.

Pro is generally good, assuming one is comfortable with slung knobs as pro on easy climbing.

P1 - 5.8 - 60m - Follow the obvious cracks up the buttress. when they run out, knobs lead up and left to a comfortable alcove with chain anchors.

P2 - 5.8 - 60m - Lead out directly left and proceed up on endless knobs. There are a few cracks available and eventually a bolt will be encountered. Go left from the bolt over a steep bulge and then follow a right facing corner/crack up to a chain anchor on a decent ledge.

P3 - 5.8 - 60m - A bouldery start out right to a high bolt. Tending right along knobs, head towards a short crack (NOT left along the large blocks). Climb more knobs past a bolt and up another right facing crack and belay on gear where convenient (a number of decent stances are available).

P4 - 5.6 - 20m - Climb easy slab to the right and either continue up to the summit (easy slab, but poor/no pro and face can be mossy/slick) or find an easy 10' downclimb on to a ledge on the right face and proceed up to a belay on boulders. If on the summit, perform a very short (~15') rap to the boulders.

From the boulders, proceed up easy 3rd class to the true summit.

Descent


Rap possible with a 70m or two shorter ropes. From the summit, head climber's left to a rap anchor. Rap to the large overgrown ledge and head across it to another set of chains. Four more raps (all bolts/chains except for one slung tree) lead back to the ground through the middle of the Great Depression.

Location 

This route splits the buttress on the right side of the Great Depression.

Protection 

Doubles to 3", slung knobs


Photos of Wing Feather Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wing Feather
BETA PHOTO: Wing Feather
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on the Shuteye mega classic, Wing Fe...
Mike Arechiga on the Shuteye mega classic, Wing Fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chickenheads galore!
Chickenheads galore!
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Wingfeather
Climbers on Wingfeather
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo To Wing Feather
BETA PHOTO: Topo To Wing Feather

Comments on Wing Feather Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Brooks
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 6, 2015

Amazing climb, one of the best of its grade that I have ever done. Go and climb it! 2nd pitch was nebulous, stay right after the initial chicken heads, past the bolt and up the steep bulge. Cruiser crack to a ledge after that.

Bring LOTS of slings, I had 12 and wished I had a couple more
By Jeff Scheuerell
Oct 6, 2015

Gray is full of amazing climbs!
By Dusty Cams
Sep 26, 2016

Fantastic Climb, a few notes:

First pitch is a full 60m, having a double set here was helpful if you are not comfortable with very long runouts

Second pitch is not a full 60m, more like 45-50. Regarding the "go left from bolt/steep bulge/right facing corner/crack" in the route description and guide book, don't go too far left, (as there is a steep bulge /right facing corner/crack) or you will be in 9+ territory up to the belay (as my partner did)--if you find your self climbing over the left edge/roof of the buttress, you've gone to far left of the bolt.

Third pitch: the moves below the 2nd bolt are a bit tricky, then easy after the bolt--seemed like strange bolt placement, but glad it was there either way.