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Wine Bottle Slide 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: ACB Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Matt Dobbs, NP
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,438
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jun 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo of key areas of the slide and route. Cl...

Description 

Like Colden Slide, the Wine Bottle offers spectacular climbing on exposed technical terrain. The climb is reportedly better, steeper on some pitches and considerably more diverse than Colden Slide. I’d rate it as one of the top three expert-level slides in the Adirondacks.

This was first documented by as a solo climb so pitches aren’t delineated into rope lengths, but many parties might prefer to simul-climb, belay the few short sections of difficulty, or even to pitch out the climbing.

Footwall (5.2) PG:
Face climb up the center of the footwall staying right of the obvious buttress on the left side. Divots, pockets, flakes, cracks and edges offer a variety of options and good gear.

Midsection R:
The midsection is nearly 400 feet wide and offers expansive views. Scramble up and slightly right up the center on unprotected slab for about 275 feet toward a 5 foot bulge/overlap with some lichen. The rock is a little dirtier for a short distance; continue to a 5 foot vertical overlap that ends the scrambling.

Mid slide ledges and cliffs to top PG:
In general, the route takes the best line that avoids vegetation.

Climb the overlap 5.4 (there are good cracks for natural belays above and below this section) and head left up 4th class/easy 5th class ledges with plentiful holds and edges. Traverse right toward the right side of the slide under a large tree island below a 25 foot cliff that spans the slide. The tree island begins at the cliff and extends downward. Climb up to a 3 foot y bushy overlap near the right side of the slide. Climb the cliff via a left rising ramp with several cracks to a 4 foot wide ledge. Walk left to an obvious fracture cave with a hanging chockstone. Climb through cave then up and left to a terrace with perhaps the best view of the slide below.

Walk up through a narrow band of shrubs and scramble up and right to an overhanging 15 foot cliff. Follow left along the cliff to an obvious wide crack at the top. A bouldery 5.7 move leads to the crack (formed when a piece of the slab slid slightly forward). Climb crack to low angle face. Belay from the top if necessary. This move can be avoided be heading to the trees/vegetation on the right.
Scramble up the remainder of the slide to top.

Exit
Bushwhack 250 feet left to a narrow unappealing slide that leads directly to the balanced rock on the summit ridge. Follow trail left to Lake Arnold and back to Loj/South Meadows.

Location 

Park at ADK Loj or South Meadows. Hike to Avalanche Lake then bushwhack 250 from the south end of the lake.

Protection 

PG on footwall, R (but scrambling on midsection), PG for rest of route.


Photos of Wine Bottle Slide Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wine Bottle Slide (cliff #1).
Wine Bottle Slide (cliff #1).
Rock Climbing Photo: Wine Bottle Slide footwall.
Wine Bottle Slide footwall.

Comments on Wine Bottle Slide Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Stanley
Jul 24, 2017

Is this a roped climb? I see some 5.2 soloing and 5.4 R, but the route is rated at 5.7. The beta photos are unroped. I assume you want to rope up for a pitch or two?
By Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 26, 2017

Three of us did it when we named it. I soloed, but the others roped for a 5.4R overlap in the center and the 5.7 crux near the top. There are more extensive photos at adirondackmountaineering.com if you're interested.
By BaldyGuerrilla
Aug 31, 2017

I never wanted a rope. As long as you avoid the moss and keep your shoes clean everything is solid. Even the short 5.7 section has trees below it, you'd probably only end up with a sprained ankle if you blew it. Really fun, but more of a scramble than a climb.

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