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Secret Waterfall (aka Windy Saddle Ice Flow)
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Secret Waterfall (aka Windy Saddle Ice Flow) 

Secret Waterfall (aka Windy Saddle Ice Flow) 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 75'
Original: WI2+ [details]
FA: Bryan Ferguson & Jay ..., 1979
Season: most winters
Page Views: 2,638
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 15, 2011

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1/11/14. The thread and screw are ~100' from the ...

Description 

This is not really worth the hike if you're seeking steepness.

If you are still determined, the climb is ~120' from the base of the ice to the top of the main bit. It tends to thin out and get hollow near the top. The second bit involves a few ramps of lower angle ice. There are no fixed anchors.

Location 

Windy Saddle is a few miles up the Lookout Mountain Road, officially called Lariat Loop. The ice is a long way down below (~1600' by the map), on the west side of the parking lot. The flow is very well hidden and can't be seen from either the overlook or down on US 6. The easiest way to spot it is from the Stumbling Block, across the canyon. When the river is frozen, approach from below (~1000' gain). Otherwise, hiking down from Windy Saddle is possible but very strenuous.

Protection 

Ice screws.

Mountain Lion Den 

Per Ryan Marsters: there is a mountain lion den just above and climber's right of the ice.


Photos of Secret Waterfall (aka Windy Saddle Ice Flow) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb enjoys the conditions.
Deb enjoys the conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top rope at the Secret Waterfall, c. 2010.
Top rope at the Secret Waterfall, c. 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo taken Feb. 14, 2011.
BETA PHOTO: Photo taken Feb. 14, 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: Secret Waterfall on Google Earth.
BETA PHOTO: Secret Waterfall on Google Earth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay, Secret Waterfall, 1979.
Jay, Secret Waterfall, 1979.

Comments on Secret Waterfall (aka Windy Saddle Ice Flow) Add Comment
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By Bryan Ferguson
Dec 6, 2011
rating: WI3

Funny to see the Secret Waterfall "outed” – I’ve been going there most every year since 1979. Jay and I simul-soloed it in '79. I think it's solid WI 3.

Best approach is from above. Drop off the Beaver Brook trail at the rock outcropping well before the Secret Icefall drainage. Before the Beaver Brook Trail was in, we approached from below. Not too bad, but the river crossing can be dangerous.
By Bryan Ferguson
Mar 27, 2012
rating: WI3

We called this the "Secret Waterfall" for 30 years prior to the Windy Saddle naming. What do you think, should we go with Secret Waterfall?
By Ryan Marsters
Jan 16, 2017

Somebody added anchor bolts with rings climber side right a couple years ago - it used to be a bit tricky for toproping. The climb is getting popular (2-3 parties on a given off day).

Note there are ancient pitons in weaknesses on both the right and left sides of the climb.

It is about 32 m from the bolts to the base, so watch the ends. Most set up on a somewhat sheltered ledge on the right above the lower-angled ice.
By Ryan Marsters
Jan 30, 2017

FYI, there is a mountain lion den in the rock band above and climber's left of the ice on the approach. A buddy was hissed at by three cubs last weekend.

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