Windshield Wiper Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Windshield Wiper Wall 1. Eggs Anyone 5.10b (left o...
The Windshield Wiper Wall
is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).
The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.
See this description of the Willy Stick
for an account of how this wall got its name.
After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.
During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless
Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Windshield Wiper Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Windshield Wiper Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Windshield Wiper Wall:
DOO 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Windshield Wiper Wall
Half Hearted 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Utah
: Maple Canyon
: ... : Windshield Wiper Wall
A surprisingly pumpy route on mostly positive holds, but with some nerve-wracking moves on somewhat-less-than-large features.Start at the left of the black water streak; the first bolt is a bit above head height.Climb up the left side of the gritty black streak, occasionally venturing in the tan rock on the left (but you'll not want to delve too deeply into the leftloose choss awaits and your belayer will be unhappy).Fight the pump, and wonder around the sixth or seventh bolt if it w...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah