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Winds of Fortune 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kimball and Hladick, 1979
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: s.kimball on Nov 5, 2009

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Description 

This is perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof.

Start 200 feet around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station.

P1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance. Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100 feet.

P2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals.

P3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system.

P4. 200 feet of low 5th class to the summit.

Protection 

Standard rack.

Location 

This is to the right of Sorcerer/Climb of the Ancient Mariner.


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By s.kimball
Nov 6, 2009

Perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof. Start 200ft around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station. 1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance.Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100ft. 2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals. 3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system. 4. 200 ft of low 5th class to the summit. Standard rack.

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