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Winds of Fire 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Unice
Page Views: 9,476
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 3, 2007

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Willardstyle on the top moves of Winds Of Fire 5.1...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A long, mostly not-quite-vertical route on pockets and jugs, with two small roofs to pull through.

The rock is mostly solid, although there are hollow-sounding areas throughout most of the route. The psychological crux is the first, slightly intimidating roof (and that's probably the technical crux as well).

All in all, a fun climb, and long for a single-pitch sport route.

Take care while lowering or rappelling as a 60m rope is just barely long enough (with no stretch).


Continue past the south face of Hard Rock for a couple of hundred feet. Winds of Fire is on a columnar-looking prow topped by a pointed roof.


10 bolts to double ring rap anchors with quicklinks. Actually, there are two sets of anchors: the rap anchors mentioned and some older chains above those.

Photos of Winds of Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off Winds of Fire.
Rapping off Winds of Fire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Good ol' Winds of Fire.
Good ol' Winds of Fire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Winds of Fire
Winds of Fire
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of Winds of Fire from belayer's POV.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of Winds of Fire from belayer's POV.
Rock Climbing Photo: 22 Winds of Fire 5.10
BETA PHOTO: 22 Winds of Fire 5.10

Comments on Winds of Fire Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 25, 2015
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 4, 2007

I thought this route's difficulty was probably more like 5.9, but it is in the Ruckman guide at it easy 5.10.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Sep 24, 2007

Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Oct 28, 2007

For what it's worth, I'll note that one of my partners, who is a stronger sport climber than I, told me he thought this route is .10d. I think he's up in the night, but one more opinion can't hurt, right?
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a fabulous climb with lots to do on it. the roofs are the cruxes. pull them on small edges with tricky feet way off the ground. i'll say its 10c.
By Michael MacFadden
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going.
By Alec LaLonde
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Classic -- best .10a in the canyon. There are some interesting routefinding problems; for the onsight it'll likely be harder than 10a. Awesome feature with the business right at the top. Get on it!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Hardest 10a I've been on in AF, it certainly makes the 10a to the west feel like a 5.9. The rock is much more featured than a lot of the surrounding walls and thus hides the holds quite well. I really enjoyed this route since it's different from most other AF routes. Yes there are occasional pockets as always, but there are a lot of crimps, flakes, and sketchy feet as well. The variety is great, especially with the several small roofs to pull over. The first half is nothing special, but the last half definitely makes this one worth it.
By Tanner Wise
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

one of my favorite 10's in the canyon! the length, the variety, the rock quality, and the exposure made this climb awesome. I put it at around 5.10b/c
By bmdhacks
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the best 5.10's in the Wasatch for sure! A must do. I think 10a is spot on. None of the moves are particularly hard, but it is long for a sport route. I thought Punch the Clock (10a) and Treehugger (10b) around the corner were both harder than this. There was a lot of rope drag by the time I got to the top. Some long runners in the right spots would have probably helped.
By jeff p
From: Golden
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

TOP 10 10a's of my life. it has exposure and length and views and a couple cool moves. Near hands free rests all the way up so you can really soak it in. The only tricky section for me was just over the mini roof, but with out that move it might not be 10a. Super classic and a confidence builder for the grade.
By Graden Swett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led this for the first time immediately after leading Vaporous Apparition for the first time, and personally think Winds of Fire is way more fun and actually has an easier (or at least more confidence inspiring) crux. Lots of fun moves with great pockets,cool exposure, better than average protection and a crux that definitely had me scratching my head. Also, beautiful rock, lots of calcite crystals tucked away inside many of the finger pockets and on the face of the rock near the uppper section. Definitely a new favorite, DO IT!!

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