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Wind of the North 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 320', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Season: When weather is warm.
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2. Among the most perfect splitter finger cr...

Description 

Wind of the North has two beautiful splitters, the crux pitch being one of the most stunning fractures in all of China. This unbelievable pitch is well worth the effort to get to it.

P1: 5.8. 10m. Fun left-facing corner with perfect hands to a flat, clean belay on top of the pillar.

P2: 5.12+. 33m. From belay, down climb and stem over to the bush stump to access the immaculate tips crack. Tips, perfect fingers, off fingers, two awesome crack switches and a long hand-crack finish - this pitch keeps on delivering!

P3: 5.9. 15m. Climb the corner through a hole. Loose block can be avoid by climbing the face to the right.

P4: 5.5 10m. Move belay to the other side of the pillar at the base of the final pitch.

P5: 5.11. 25m. Climb up the pillar and make bolt protected moves to access the aesthetic and exposed final splitter.

Location 

On the prow of the pillar over looking the entrance into Laojunshan. The scrubbing on P2 is visible from Li Ming. Keep following the trail left past Artemis. The trail drops down into a brushy gully and then to the ridge. Follow the ridge to pillar. P1 climbs the left side of the pillar.

Protection 

Double set .1 to 2 with extra .3s - at least two blue metolius and two .3s - and singles from 3 to 6. Strong climbers can skip the big cams (there only useful for pitch 3). Nuts are great to have.


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By Drew Marshall
Mar 27, 2016
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

No need to worry about the 'loose blocks' on p3 anymore...

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