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Willy Wonka 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chad Watkin
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: TylerKC on May 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Dallas, staring down the crimps

Description 

Start up a ledge and make a fun move off the slot.
Balance your way through some slabby moves to a final crux up high.

Very entertaining and fun moderate.

Protection 

7 Bolts


Photos of Willy Wonka Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff just past the first bolt.
Jeff just past the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: .
.

Comments on Willy Wonka Add Comment
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By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 5, 2015

This serves as a decent warm up for taller people, not so much for shorter people. The second bolt is a fixed draw. I'm just over 6 ft and I could barely clip it from a comfortable stance. My 5'6" girlfriend would have to clip it from a pretty desperate and pumpy position (She normally onsights 10s, both sport and trad.) I clipped that draw for her, and then she continued on. Just something to consider. Courtesy clip for shorter folks.

I also thought the crux was at the second bolt, not below the anchor.
By TylerKC
Administrator
From: Fayetteville Arkansas
Jun 5, 2015

It is possible a hold may have broken over the years.

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