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Willy Wall
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Alone and Second Best S 
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Life of your Time S 
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Unknown new S 
Willy on a Stick S 

Willy on a Stick 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Snyder
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Mike Stearns on Sep 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: line and anchor location

Description 

The left of two bolt lines, the other being Pleasure to Burn. Follow low angle rock with jugs up a lichened ramp to the real climbing. The route changes from slab to vertical to slightly overhanging, so the endurance crux comes near the anchors.

We pulled off a few cobbles and talked to others who also did. Wear a helmet and climb gingerly. There isn't much room or footing at the base making it slightly harder for the belayer to dodge cobble bombs.

Location 

First two routes as you approach. Leftmost of the pair Willy on a Stick and Pleasure to Burn. The low angled ramp at the beginning has a lot of lichen. These routes sit between a cleft and a black streak.

We lowered with a 70m rope. I cannot verify if a 60m works.

Protection 

19 draws total and a helmet (esp. for the belayer). Two chain anchor at the top.


Photos of Willy on a Stick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the vertical mid section of the route.
In the vertical mid section of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Find the climber.
Find the climber.

Comments on Willy on a Stick Add Comment
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By Mort
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Anyone know anything about the route to the right of the black streak with shiny new bolts?
By R Connors
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I climbed this route over the weekend and also looked at the shiny right-hand route. I couldn't find the start...there only appeared to be chains at the top, plus a line of about 4 or 5 bolts coming down the face. Looks like a great route, but it may still be a work in progress.

A 60-meter rope will not reach!
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 17, 2016

As of 7/16, this route has cleaned up quite nicely. We encountered nothing loose, although the bottom holds were still a bit sandy here and there. This makes a nice long warm up with practically no approach if you are camped along the road.

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