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Willy B Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Willy B

	East Face/Willy B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Swing Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. Direct) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Willy Warmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Elevation:	7,370 ft
GPS:	39.9839, -105.295 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,286 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Warren Teissier on Oct 2, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

Willy B is a thin pinnacle located South West from the Third. [The base of Willy B is almost as high as the top of the Third. As seen from afar, Willy B is the Western most pinnacle located between the Third and the Fouth and is actually closer to the Fourth.] It is very close and to the left and uphill of the Morning After rock also known as the Needle's Eye.

The rock on Willy B is good overall but does have an abundance of [lichen] particularly on the lower pitches. The pinnacle is uncharacteristically steep for a flatiron formation. Also, the two documented routes on it are harder than the average East Face routes at 5.7 and 5.8 S

The 5.7 route known as Swing Time is a lot of fun although a bit run out.

There is a brand new rappel set up with two good bolts and a chain. Rappel 80 ft West or 90 ft North. We rappelled 100 feet South with our 60M rope barely reaching the bottom. The rappel set up although new, is ackwardly placed too close to the lip of the summit, making for a really uncomfortable rappel start.

The gully North of Willy B is not hikeable, we hiked down the South side.

Getting There

There is a variety of ways to get to Willy B. We hiked up the Royal Arch trail all the way to Sentinel pass. From there we bushwhacked uphill with a general North West direction. Willy B is about 300 yards up the hill.

You can also reach it by heading West/ South West from the Royal Arch trail where it switch backs and there is a painted sign on a large boulder that says Royal Arch Trail with an arrow pointing left. This direction will take you past the Eyes of the canyon and Morning After.

Both routes on Willy B start on the south side and traverse onto the East Face about 200 feet from the bottom of the slab. When you get to the bottom slab it'll be hard to see the whole pinnacle. Scramble up the gully on the left/South side of the slab. You can start the climb where a huge ledge crosses the East face above an overhang or you can do it a pitch higher by scrambling up some boulders and onto a nice ledge, saving yourself a [licheny] unprotected 5.4 pitch.