Sycamore Canyon Rock Climbing
Perfect winter day... © James Q Martin
Sycamore Canyon is a massive Mogollon Rim drainage tucked away in a thick Ponderosa pine forest, just south of Garland Prairie. Timeless crags such as Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, "The land of a thousand climbs" Sycamore Point, and a newer addition, Whitetail Canyon, are all found on the rim of Sycamore Canyon. These columnar basalt canyons are home to some of the best hard rock crack climbing in Arizona. Climbing at Volunteer Canyon and Paradise Forks began in the middle 1970's with true ground up endeavors usually involving splitter hand and fist cracks. However, Paradise Forks stole the spolight due to the long alluring crack climbs, and all around easy, year round access. Many of the classic lines were done on passive gear, and maybe an occasional pin. The first ascents of these routes were truly inspired outings, when you think about the parallel sided cracks which make the Forks such a treasure. Paradise Forks has matured, and filled out with a ton of classics over the last four decades. Generations of bold climbers have come and gone, and every one has left a history of hard, spicy climbing. The Forks is known for down home crack jamming, and for the thinner, technical routes which often come with heart racing ratings. This is a crag where you can get your first taste of "5.9 Hands", or find a head point project to up your ante. Volunteer Canyon has a big feel to it, and is somewhat wild when compared to The Forks. Many of the lines done here in the 1970's, and modern day classics alike, require rapping into very specific belays, due to the architecture of the walls and lines. One way or the other, you gotta climb out. Whether that's climbing the route, or jugging up your rap line in defeat. However, the jagged, hypnotizing beauty of the canyon is undeniable, as well as, the long, striking lines.
Ben Zeiger-Haag on Bladerunner, Paradise Forks
Nearing the end of crux #1 on my first lead attempt. Volunteer Canyon.
Wade Forrest photo
Follow directions for the individual crags.
Weather station 14.1 miles from here
193 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',111],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sycamore Canyon
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sycamore Canyon:
Featured Route For Sycamore Canyon
Sindarete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Arizona
: Northern Arizona
: ... : Memorial Wall
Marking the transition between the Iron Wall and Memorial Wall is a unique hollow layer of cinder cobbles near the rim. While much of this layer is dirty, rotten, and covered in lichen, the Sindarete is fairly solid, and almost sinfully fun.You climb both sides of a steep arete with incredible position and sustained movement in a long pitch. The beginning is a bit off balance and sequential. The crux near the middle may be reachy but on great holds. After some more exposed arete moves, difficult...[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona