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Willard S 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dianne Barrow, Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner, July, 1995
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 12, 2001

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  • Description 

    Start just right of the fallen tree. (route to the right of The Penguin). Climb into a right-facing dihedral, staying a little left of the 5th bolt. Finish the route with a high hand beside and left of the anchors or traverse right at 6th bolt onto the covered ledge. (5.10'ish) It is a great dihedral with tricky feet and body positions, look for crimp on face by 3rd/4th bolt to get the feet and body up.


    6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Willard Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 25, 2002

    Just did this route a couple days ago - tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well....

    Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain!
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 29, 2007
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though.
    By Chris. T.
    Jul 11, 2012

    1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit.
    By erik rieger
    From: Ridgway, CO
    Jan 12, 2014
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This is up there with bad routes I've done in the canyon. The finishing move is just WEIRD.

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