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Willard Canyon Waterfall 


Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: Bruce Roghaar and partner later 60s?
Season: winter
Page Views: 3,229
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Dave on Willard Canyon Waterfall's first steep bit...


A neat ramble up a sometimes very narrow ribbon of ice.

Scramble up to base of ice fall, and, climb up lower angle ice. After a couple of pitches, a couple of steeper sections provide some fun climbing.

The main gully continues up for quite a ways above the steeper sections, but, it becomes a bit low angle and less than interesting.

Great to do this in low snow conditions, when there's pure ice and no snow nearby.


Pretty much straight across from Willard Bay. From behind the cemetery in town, travel east around a half mile and take the right hand fork to the end of the road. Cross the creek and hike up to an old road to the north that heads east towards the canyon. Drop down towards the creek. The trail to the falls will cross the creek a couple of times then ascends up to the base of the climb.

Either rappel the route ("should" be some anchors) or hike up and left then down the YCC trail (should be visible in the cliff face to the climber's left of the waterfall) taking into account any avalanche hazard. Also possible to hike up towards the east, then back to the north and come down in the canyon to the north of the route.


In early season, rock gear works well up the whole route in the narrow slot. Slings, some pins and maybe a few nuts and cams if early season, otherwise, a selection of long and short ice screws. Some fixed pins on route (some quite old looking).

Photos of Willard Canyon Waterfall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: p.4 w/camera error
BETA PHOTO: p.4 w/camera error
Rock Climbing Photo: p.3
Rock Climbing Photo: p.2
Rock Climbing Photo: p.1
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt puts the whoop on the crux of the Willard Can...
Matt puts the whoop on the crux of the Willard Can...
Rock Climbing Photo: The boyz coming up the narrow lower angle ramble p...
The boyz coming up the narrow lower angle ramble p...

Comments on Willard Canyon Waterfall Add Comment
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By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Dec 21, 2011

fun route that goes very quickly even though it is 800ft. the walk off brings you right back to your bags, and is recommended over rappelling the route which will have you leaving rap slings on trees along with scratching your head as to where those supposed pitons are.
By bus driver
Nov 25, 2015

If you get skunked on the ice due to warming temps, the rock climb "air to spare" faces south and might be a good alternative(rock shoes, 12 draws, cams .5"-2", few slings).

On the right day it's probably possible to do the ice climb then the rock climb in the same day.

Please pardon the shameless crag promotion but air to spare is a fun climb. . .
By Neil Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 18, 2016

Rapping the route really isn't too bad, there are many options. Above P1 there is a rap anchor on climbers left with new cord. Above P2 there is a tree that you can rap from. A little ways above the top of P2 there is another very visible rap anchor with new cord on climbers left. A little ways before the base of P4 there is a tree with green webbing around it on climbers right. Rapping from above P4 is a little tricky, there are trees above that might require a 70m rope, or we down-climbed climbers right of the ice which was totally manageable.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jan 18, 2016

Please DO NOT rap this route. We were rapped on while climbing the second pitch. Having people rappel over top of you while leading ice is not really fun. I have climbed this route about 10 times and always walked off the ccc trail to the north. Not hard to find if you are observant. A good old walk off is the way to go.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Jan 20, 2016

Right, that descent trail is massively good and easy, even goes back to the base area. Not tricky, don't have to find the green webbing, etc., etc.

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