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Will a steel carabiner damage an aluminum belay device?
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Aug 19, 2016
I have an Edelrid HMS Bruce steel carabiner for use with my Mega Jul. Since it has a keeper loop to prevent cross-loading, I'd like to use it with my DMM Pivot as well. I'm just worried that it might groove the Pivot. Has anybody here used a steel carabiner with an aluminum tuber? Any problems? Mitchell E
Joined Jan 3, 2016
29 points
Aug 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
The megajul dings up the top of aluminum biners but I don't know if it's because it's steel or if its just how hard the mega slams into the biner when it locks up. Probably a combination of the two. I'm curious to hear from people who have used steel biners with aluminum tubes. Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Aug 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
eventually it will start to wear at your pivot, it will take ages but it will happen eventually, just get the aluminium version. that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Aug 19, 2016
The camp I work at commonly uses steel biners with aluminum tubes and has no issues. Extremely minimal wear, if any. Jack Stephenson
Joined May 12, 2016
20 points
Administrator
Aug 20, 2016
You can use a steel biner with an aluminum belay device if you want. Technically steel is harder than aluminum, but that really has no practical application here. You'll never wear down the belay device solely by using a steel biner. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Aug 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I'm getting a Mega Jul to go with my Metolius stainless locker. It's primarily to reduce the extreme wear the sandy local crags are causing on my aluminum lockers. This is then coating my ropes each time out and it's ending up all over my hands and clothing. You might consider pairing your steel belay devices with steel lockers just to cut down on wear as well. I never had this problem in primarily limestone or granite areas, but soft sandstone is horrible. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Aug 20, 2016
I was under the impression that steel was avoided (unless necessary) due to the microfragments that end up in your rope.

Having steel abrasive dust running over your other aluminum gear is going to wear it far faster than aluminum dust.

Not sure where I picked that up..
windexxx
Joined Dec 8, 2014
0 points
Aug 20, 2016
windexxx wrote:
I was under the impression that steel was avoided (unless necessary) due to the microfragments that end up in your rope. Having steel abrasive dust running over your other aluminum gear is going to wear it far faster than aluminum dust. Not sure where I picked that up..

Seems like you got that from someone who doesn't know what they're talking about.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Aug 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the top of First Time Up in Horseshoe Canyon...
windexxx wrote:
I was under the impression that steel was avoided (unless necessary) due to the microfragments that end up in your rope. Having steel abrasive dust running over your other aluminum gear is going to wear it far faster than aluminum dust. Not sure where I picked that up..


Hear that from a guy named Eric?
Dustin Stotser
From Springfield, MO
Joined May 24, 2014
372 points
Aug 20, 2016
Somebody better tell the military that it's not good to mix nylon and steel. Dave Kos
Joined Jan 31, 2011
82 points
Aug 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Kamakaze 5.10a (Ozone)
I've been using a steel biner with my ATC for four years. No wear noticeable on the ATC where it hits the biner when it catches a fall, all the wear is from the rope running against the tube or from getting scratched when I bang it against things as I climb with it clipped to a gear loop.

That doesn't mean your pivot won't get damaged, but at least for an ATC there is no issue.
Bill Shubert
From Lexington, MA
Joined Jul 20, 2012
60 points
Aug 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle
windexxx wrote:
I was under the impression that steel was avoided (unless necessary) due to the microfragments that end up in your rope. Having steel abrasive dust running over your other aluminum gear is going to wear it far faster than aluminum dust. Not sure where I picked that up..


Aluminum oxide is more abrasive than iron oxide.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
180 points
Aug 20, 2016
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Aluminum oxide is more abrasive than iron oxide.





Thanks!
windexxx
Joined Dec 8, 2014
0 points


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