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Wildlings S 

Wildlings 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Piarulli
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Kevin MP on Aug 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Wildlings

What 

Another short but sweet Garden route. Overcome the first 5 feet of choss and enjoy powerful and delicate climbing past some fun holds the rest of the way. Best in the morning; the route catches sun in the afternoon. Unsure on grade for this new route so I look forward to some input.

Where 

Left of Slithering Skink, goes up the steep hanging dihedral.

How 

5 bolts to ring anchors. Fixed draw on the second bolt to facilitate cleaning. Like most routes here, a stick clip is advised.


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By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Sep 18, 2016

For me, this route climbed like several powerful V2-V4 boulder moves with jug rests in between. Would have been very hard to onsight. The bolting is very comfortable. I started a bit more to the right off of the best jugs so that I could avoid most of the rotten rock. I found the crux to be moving just around the first bolt off of this small crimp and up to a jug. I found a nice kneebar just below the third bolt before some harder moves on interesting pinches moving to a jug. Easier but thoughtful climbing from there. I found the route to be about the same difficulty as Learning to Fly, but less pumpy, much easier than Snug as a Snail,and slightly harder than Naschash. Looking forward to climbing it more as a part of my routine.
By Andrew Child
From: Santa Clara
Sep 29, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Its hard to compare this route to Naschash and Learning to Fly since its so short and physical. Its clearly easier to Fight Club, but I don't have a great feel for how either route should be graded. They both feel easier than the low 5.12s at smith to me, but both routes also complement my strengths very well.
By Micah Elconin 1
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Felt like soft 11d to me. There's some relief between each boulder problem but boulders may not recover well at them.

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