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Snowpatch Spire
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: B. Dougherty, Art Higbee, August 1974
Page Views: 5,622
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Following the third pitch of Wildflowers. This mi...


This is a great route with fun sustained climbing but I give it two stars because the rocks not as clean as some of the more popular routes. But if your looking for a moderate route with no one else on it that's not to far from camp, this might be it. (Note: it's easy to stretch out the pitches described below to go faster as the route pretty much goes straight up with no traversing).

P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)

P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)

P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)

P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)

P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)

P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)

P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)

To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.


Wildflowers is located on the west face of Snowpatch which is accessed via the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. The start of the route lies almost directly below the south summit and follows a large left facing dihedral. Begin on a ledge about 200' below the dihedral.


Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3" should suffice.

Photos of Wildflowers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper pitches above the long corner.
Upper pitches above the long corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: topo by Benson and Green, with edits
BETA PHOTO: topo by Benson and Green, with edits
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at wildflowers sowpatch spire
looking up at wildflowers sowpatch spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Wildflowers!  Photo by MP contributor Dr. Evil
BETA PHOTO: Wildflowers! Photo by MP contributor Dr. Evil

Comments on Wildflowers Add Comment
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By Tim Banfield
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 14, 2012

Have you gone down the west face with only a 60m rope? Re rapped it last week and were right at the ends on a 70m rope on the 4th rap I think. Are there other stations than the 'main' stations on the descent?


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