REI Community
(2) Wildfire Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Finger T 
Bad Finger Extended (BFE)  T 
Body Karate S 
Caning, The S 
Cornercopia T 
Crime Wave T 
Cry of the Poor T 
Cry Some More (Extension) S 
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 
Gruff T 
Iron Cross T 
Just Say Yes S 
Karate Kid S 
Kung Fu Hustle S 
Lion of Judah S 
Mad Man T,TR 
Money for Nothing S 
Neutral Zone T 
On The Road T 
Out Of Darkness T 
Passover T 
Pure Palm S 
Resuscitation S 
Rim Job T 
Sidewalk Chalk T 
Soft Touch T 
Split Decision T 
Titus T 
Trump Slap S 
Try To Be Hip S 
White Trash S 
Wildfire T 
Yellow Belt T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Landrum, Ken Currens, March 1975
Page Views: 3,412
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Shirley leading Wildfire.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


The crux of this classic climb is the first half of the route. Insecure feet and thin fingers in the tight starting dihedral lead to a ledge at halfway. From here, a somewhat easier finger crack ends at a steep jumbled headwall. Rap anchors are just right of this, around a blind corner.


West end of Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River).


Pro to 2 1/2 inches. Passive pro tricky to place in the first half due to bottlenecks being very narrow and inward crack flaring. Cams work great in this section.

Comments on Wildfire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Some body english helps through the start crux section. Then enjoyable hands and fingers until the eventual step right to the anchors. Fun, but I don't think as good as others on this wall.
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 21, 2006

I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Save some small gear for the top, plus some slings. I didn't bring enough and the rope drag going to the anchors was kinda annoying.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Long slings on the last two pieces mandatory.
By ferrells
Jun 5, 2010

I made the mistake of pulling the easy roof at the top, only to find no anchors. After my partner checked the book, I had to down climb to climber's right to get to them.
I liked the climb, but not as much as Badfinger, which is more continuous.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

Update October 2014:

Wildfire now has its own rap anchor with chains, so you no longer need to do the awkward and annoying step right. Big fatty 1/2" bolts added by Kent 10/2014.
By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Don't skip this if you are in the gorge, really good example of moderate gorge crack. Fun to do laps on.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About