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24 Variation T 
24 Unknown T 
3AM Crack T 
? T 
Amaretto Corner T 
Anasazi T 
Bad Rad Duality T 
Binge and Purge T 
Bongo Flake T 
Coyne Crack T 
Fat Free T 
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 
Fledge TR 
Gorilla T 
Incredible Hand Crack T 
International Affair T 
Keyhole Flake T 
King Sooper T 
Left Affair T 
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 
No Name Crack T 
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On-Slot, The T 
Painted Pony T 
Pigs in a Slot T 
Pink Flamingo T 
Pringles T 
Savelli Crack T 
super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Left of The Wave T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wild Works of Fire 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987
Page Views: 2,481
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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BETA PHOTO: from the parking lot

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Just right of 3AM Crack is this splitter handcrack with a thin start and a couple of wider pods. The first move is bouldery, but once you're on the pedestal, the fun begins. Perfect jams lead up to some akwardness, then more fun jamming to the anchor. 1 rope will get you up and down.

I thought this climb was as good as any other line we climbed at the creek. It felt more like 5.10 than 5.11. Don't miss the rest.


Rap off the 3AM Crack anchors and swing right to a 2-bolt bolt station 80' off the ground, and set up your TR. The guidebooks give this climb an R. It seems like the first 10 feet wouldn't be worth protecting as the rock is suspect but after that the pro should be bomber to the anchors.

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By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2003

I believe the "R" rating in the '99 guidebook refers to the section at the top that one used to have to traverse to the 3AM anchor. There is now an anchor atop Wild Works, eliminating this traverse. The route protects just fine.
By Brian Weinstein
Apr 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

this route was well protected even through the soft area near the beginning. nice hands to a pod where one needs to delve deep to jam and place. P1 ends on fingers to a set of anchors 80 feet up. P2 is the crux 11 pitch.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 2, 2005

It is probably best not to follow the guidebook's gear recommendation. You will probably want more than 2 sets of cams. One set of cams to a #3 Camalot, with 3 #1s and 5 #2s will probably make you more comfortable to the first set of anchors.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was under the impression that the .11 rating was for the second pitch. The first pitch is .10.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

I also thought the R was for P2. P1 looks pretty solid and the rock at the beginning definitely looks good enough to toss in some finger pieces.
By Darren Knezek
Dec 5, 2008

FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987.
By tourjee Tourjee
From: Moab, UT
Apr 20, 2010

Just at the creek this weekend and the starting pillar of this climb has a loose detached block that appears solid but is actually cracked horizontally across the pillar. Definitely gonna pull off soon.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

At least there are a couple of decent rests on this one. Take lots of #2 Camalots and Friend #3s for the main crack section, smaller stuff at bottom and top. Getting up the pod 2/3 of the way up is really awkward, especially if you have big shoulders. UK grade tough E1 5b.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is great after doing 3AM. 3AM is a burl-fest, and pretty much the same moves the whole way (FYI, I loved 3AM). But this route is all creativity. Pods, flaring handcrack type overhang-y parts. A great and creative route! A nice contrast to 3AM.
By Ben Smith
From: On the road, USA
Jul 1, 2017

On anchors and the grade:
- There is an anchor at 50'. Climbing to this 5.10.
- Climbing to 100' is 5.11(-). The traverse at 50' is not R-rated.
- Bloom describes a 2-bolt anchor at 100'. This anchor does not exist, or I couldn't find it. I traversed to the anchors on 3AM Crack, and this was R-rated.
- There may be bolted anchors on the 2nd pitch, or they may be a myth. I didn't venture this far.
- Now there's less of a chance you'll get Bloombagged.

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