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The Serpent's Tooth
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Wild West Crack T 

Wild West Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Prince, Vitaliy Musiyenko. sep. 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Sep 6, 2016

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pure craziness

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Obvious leaning splitter system. Burly crack climbing in a truly amazing setting

P1 - After roping up when the approach gets steep, gain the obvious balcony type ledge at the bottom of the splitter. Working to it from the right seemed the safest. One bolt + #2 anchor on top of ledge.

P2 - Boulder problem start leads to a long crack/ramp/corner. Climb past a couple bolts and gain a nice ledge. (5.11 50m)

P3 - Continue up corner to a stance (5.10+ 30m)

P4 - Continue up corner to a blocky area at the base of the business (5.11- 40m)

P5 - A very steep handcrack in the corner leads to a rest below the slot. Plug a #5 in there deep and then it's chicken wing dyno time. Very Wild. Pass a couple bolts and belay on nice ledge. (5.11+, 30m)

P6 - Short face leads to the top of the summit pinnacle.

Descent - One 30m single bolt (can back up) rap off the north side.

Protection 

Doubles to #3, 1#4, 1#5


Photos of Wild West Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: summit
summit
Rock Climbing Photo: an insanely hard handcrack in the corner, slot loo...
an insanely hard handcrack in the corner, slot loo...
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th pitch
4th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch. great jamming here
3rd pitch. great jamming here
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base
From the base

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