The route begins with a short approach pitch. It begins in a dihedral up about 40ft of decent rock. After a few offwidth moves, step right and up a jagged hand crack to gain the good ledge. This puts you at the base of the left-curving #5 sized beauty that is the essence of the climb.
The next 80 or so feet are glorious offwidth climbing. Hand fist stacks and physical arm barring will help you gain ground. Two small bulges will present some interesting "cruxes", but these are over quickly and it is really just a practice in persistence. There are several well-earned rests on the climb.
You pull out of the crack onto a small sloping ledge. There is a nice horizontal crack to place mid-range cams for an anchor. There are no bolts. To descend we climbed another pitch, which is pretty awful to be honest. Although the climbing was easy, the protection was questionable and the grunge was in abundance. We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 ropes.
Located left and up hill from Duncan Imperial (5.11) and The Dove (5.8) Hard to see the crack of the second pitch from the base, but just walk up hill a bit more and it will reveal itself to you.
We were able to rap off a tree to the ground with 2 70m ropes.
A few bolts at the top of the 5-inch crack would make this route much more enjoyable.
Rack, single set from .4 to 4 inch camalots, 5-6 #5 camalots, 1 #4, 1 #4.5 (if you have it)
Hidden behind trees lies the Wild Turkey.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Mar 2, 2016
All photos by Robin Liu or Erick Davidson.
By King Tut
3 days ago
FA Dale Bard and Ron Kauk yikes. If that don't put the willies into ya' have at it.
Note: I could be wrong but I seem to recall learning the Big Oak Flat road originally crossed that boulder field which as it turns out is an unstable "rock glacier" of sorts that continuously and slowly moves down the hill. This made the old road unstable and after decades of attempted repair was eventually abandoned and the new road was built that goes by the base of Reed's etc. Pretty unique feature in the Valley. There might have been an old sign there describing this that I read one day heading up to Little Wing.