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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Territorial Integrity T,TR 
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 
Thunderworld T 
Turkey Jerky T 
Up the Downclimb T 
Verschneidung Dihedral T 
Water Line T,S 
Wild Turkey S 
Wingshot T 
Wishbone T,S 

Wild Turkey 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill, Kevin Gallagher, 2003
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,773
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Jan 5, 2003

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Brad Durbin starting the crux.

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  • Description 

    Wild Turkey climbs up the face and overhanging arête to the right of Wingshot in the alcove area. The route is high quality, challenging climbing with modern quality bolted protection, and spectacular position above the creek. The route gets good sun all winter, though its frequently very windy. Scramble up to the alcove area from near the boulder traverse along the trail and to the base of Blues Power and Wingshot. Follow the break to the right below the blocky magenta band at the start of wing shot for about 40' to find a small, exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek.

    From the turkey perch, it is best to reach up and clip the first bolt before begining the climbing proper. Climb onto the steep face moving up and left past a detached undercling flake (careful!) to a left leaning crack from which the second bolt can easily be clipped. Continue up to positive holds at a rock scar then up and right to a large flake in the broken band. Powerful and sustained climbing up the steep bulgy arête past 3 more bolts deposits you at a stance on the vertical face above the arête. Continue straight up the delicate face to a two-bolt ring anchor.

    This route was "originally" established in the "head point" style, placing all traditional gear and clipping 20 yr old bolts in the upper section on lead. Three bolts were added to the begining of this climb and all of the old existing bolts replaced in September 2006. Unfortunately, the anchors are difficult to reach from the top of the climb so setting up a TR requires a short rappel from the summit to the anchors proper. Rossiter lists this route as Thunder Construction, a long abandoned project.


    Gear: 9 quickdraws.

    Photos of Wild Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wild Turkey.
    Wild Turkey.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome climbing on Wild Turkey, photo: Bob Horan.
    Awesome climbing on Wild Turkey, photo: Bob Horan.

    Comments on Wild Turkey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Nov 10, 2006

    Wild Turkey was approved for additional and replacement bolts by ACE and the Park system summer of 2006. Three bolts were added to the bottom of this line and the old less-than-inspiring upper bolts replaced with new ones. As a result this line is now 5.11+/5.12a with no 'r' or 's' rating. It is well-protected with 7 lead climbing bolts and a two bolt rappel anchor at the very top of the vertical face. A natural gear anchor can be made at the base in the magenta break where the climb begins. It is recommended to clip the first bolt from this belay-break ramp before you begin the climbing. Climb up onto the steep face past bulgy overhanging rock and 6 bolts to gain a stance on the vertical face above. Then climb ~15 feet straight up the face to the anchors where the angle eases off.

    Wishbone (5.11), which shares the same belay was recently established up the steep face to the right of Wild Turkey, and Kickin' Chicken (5.12b s) climbs through the first 5 bolts of Wild Turkey and moves left with natural gear to gain the steep left-angling crack above.
    By Hank Caylor
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Nov 22, 2006

    More like 12a Wayne & Kevin. I haven't led it since the routes bolts were upgraded and finished, but I've heard things. Good things. While it was great fun, in a funnily protected sort of way, I can't wait to see how it rides with all the new gear in place, The best part of this route however (in my opinion) is that it sets the stage for "Kickin Chicken" 12b. Yessiree! I'll comment on that route on that page. Nice one boys.
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Aug 28, 2007
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Put it away this morning. Awesome climb for sure. I can't imagine leading this route before the lower three bolts were put in! Yikes... The finish is really nice requiring balance and good footwork.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Aug 28, 2007

    The ACE application
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    May 6, 2009

    This is an outstanding line with some of the best exposure and position in Eldo! Very pumpy and sustained throughout the first half, with a powerful and (to me) desperate crux reach to a jug near the 5th bolt. Pulling over the lip onto the slab felt really hard (11+), and the climbing from there felt like sustained 5.11 slab to the anchor. Very nice route!

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