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Sigma Wall
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Wild Things 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Season: Fall
Page Views: 2,442
Submitted By: Shawn P. Tracy on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Route immediatley right of Sigma. Follow right facing accute corner to roof. Pull through inobvious moves to somewhat runout section to top. Anchors on left wall or top out. Solid 9-10 trad-leaders will enjoy this--others may not.


Sigma Wall


Small trad rack from medium nuts and small cams to a couple mid-range cams.

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By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really fun climb. It is a very solid, sustained, and committing lead if you're near the 5.9 leading level.

There's tons of options for gear for the first 2/3 of the climb, but how solid are those flakes?!?!? I was happy I didn't fall to find out!

A #3 camalot is nice, and I liked having my #4 after pulling the roof, but I'm sure you'd be fine with BD singles to #3 and a couple medium/large nuts (BD #8 or 9 or something like that)
By Dreez
May 28, 2012

While one of the best 5.9's trads in the state (big holds, overhang, good gear) - it is a death route. Do not put cams on the flake on the right or you will have most the climb fall down on you. The huge flake moves if you put a cam in it, and it holds up the rest of the climb. I am hoping the originals would mark it or annotate the description.

I used 2 #4's, one to start and one once over the overhang. Also a #2 past the second overhang. Needs slings for the overhang.
By Lspade
From: Maplewood, MN
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13




This has been stated before but I wanted to emphasise it. There is a big block to the right of the rightward facing flake/chimney that sits about 5 feet off the ground and is about 10 feet high. Placing a cam behind this is tempting but if you give the cam a pull you can see the entire block of rock move. Both my partner and I felt it was safe to stand on this block but if a cam wedged it off the wall the route would be a lot harder.

Oh, and I beg everyone not to bolt this route!!! Please!? This is a very unique climb (a well protected roof route that isn't rated super hard) and will surely become a classic at Sandstone!
By LeoSpaceman
Apr 2, 2017

The comments about not placing gear in the right flake are accurate, but don't let that scare you away. I'm a 5.9 trad climber and found it comfortable, with good gear in the left crack and great stances for placement. All in all it's a terrific climb.
By Lyric Rosatti
Apr 30, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Hope no one minds some gear beta here. This is what I used, take it for what its worth..
C4: .3 (used 2), .4, .75, 1, 4.
X4: .4

For my own piece of mind, I put in two pieces at the roof (the .75 and the 1).

Because of the flake, you're going to want to sling everything below the roof so you don't shred your rope when you're lowering.

The PG13 bit is getting out of the roof. There isn't good pro for about 6 feet above the roof (okay, there is one spot that might, but I tried a few pieces and nothing stuck so I just moved on), and if you fall pulling the roof you could land with your legs splitting the flake. Ouch. The #4 was the next piece, there is some big hand size stuff.

100% Agree with comments to avoid placing gear on the right flake at the start. Strong enough to pull on to get started, but definitely sounds a little hollow.

Overall, its a super fun trad lead. Go try it!

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