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Reaper Buttress
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Reaper T 
Wild Reaper Connection T 

Wild Reaper Connection 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Young & Young '90
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jan 23, 2007

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Description 

This variation to P2 of Reaper is continuous, strenuous, tricky and exposed; though the guide book gives it the same rating as Reaper, it gave me a lot more trouble. From the belay at the end of Reaper P1, traverse right to a bolt which protects a hard move over a bulge. Once over the bulge, traverse R, slightly harrowing, and gain a thin crack, which is ascended for about 4M to a marginal stance below a roof. Plug what you can in the roof, traverse left for a move or two and hope you have enough juice left to pull the roof at solid 5.11. The climbing eases above here and merges w/ Wild Oats.

Location 

Reaper buttress.

Protection 

I remember placing a small RP, some small rocks, a Red Alien, a Gold Camalot. A 1.5 Friend size piece goes in well at the crux roof but placing it adds considerably to the pump. Supplement the pieces mentioned here judiciously as I'm sure I placed considerably more than that. The pitch has two significant traverses so sling accordingly.


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