|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Rob Candelaria and Greg Finnof, 1986|
|Fixed Hardware:||4 Lead Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on Jul 14, 2001|
|Comments on Wild Kingdom||Add Comment|
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By Bob Rotert
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb is relatively safe with a touch of hot sauce and lots of exposure.
It is very similar, in nature, to Rosy but a full grade & maybe a couple of tics harder. The cool thing is you get to do what I think is the crux climbing on Rosy before you start up Wild Kingdom. So if you like Rosy and would like some similar, saucy, spooky, harder, climbing than Rosy do Wild Kingdom! The route does has some delicate flakes on it and you need to be careful about how much force you put on them. i.e folks "of substance" should not do this route! Not sure what I was doing up there. I don't think the route sees a lot of traffic compared to other Eldo routes.
Just to help with a consensus for a rating for the route and I caveat that all ratings should come from multiple opinions to have a consensus rating. So this is only my opinion.
I don't think this comes any where close to the 12a rating put on this route by the FA party... Maybe some holds broke & it's easier now?
To try and compare it to a similar climb. I think this route is easier than its neighbor Predator which I have not done in a number of years but my recollection is that Predator was a little harder than Wild Kingdom and a little closer to what I feel would be Eldo 11+. Predator definitely felt a tic or two harder than Wild Kingdom did to me back in those days. My opinion back then was that neither of them should be given a 12a rating. I could see when I was up there the other day that one flake that was on Predator in the earlier years is now gone so not sure how hard Predator is today. Both routes could have probably changed some from the early years due to breaking rock. So after my ascent the other day I would rate Wild Kingdom mid 5.11 and for a generous letter grade Eldo 11c.