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Wild Iris

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Wild Iris Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,800'
Location: 42.5792, -108.718 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 141,401
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 11, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Red Canyon on the road to the Iris. Photo by D. Al...

Description 

Wild Iris is one of the most beautiful sport climbing areas in the U.S. It's hard to beat a warm summer day spent climbing the white limestone pockets of Wild Iris. And to top it off, you'll belay comfortably beneath a peaceful canopy of aspen trees. Sublime.

The climbs are mostly short, and occasionally sharp, but the climbing and experience is more than enough to compensate for these minor drawbacks. There are plenty of routes from 5.9 on up to 5.14, so most climbers will find more than enough to stay busy.

Wild Iris is located at Limestone Mountain at an elevation of 9,000 feet. The climbing season begins when the snow melts (early June) and can last into Fall. The high altitude makes summer climbing pleasant, but be aware that the weather can change at any moment - wind and cold storms are common all summer. Many of the climbs face south, so also be prepared for warm temps! Remember this is Wyoming - land of the extremes!

A number of primitive spots are available for camping, and an outhouse is located just up from the main parking lot. Closest supplies are located in Lander.

The Lander Bar comes highly recommended for food and drink - it's a climbing tradition!

Getting There 

Wild Iris is located 24 miles southwest of Lander on Highway 28. Turn off the highway on Limestone Road and head up the dirt road. Head right at the first intersection and that will take you to the main parking lot. If you cross over South Pass (when coming from Lander) you've gone too far!

Resources 

Wild Iris Climbing - Good information about Lander climbing, including condition reports for Wild Iris

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

227 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',100],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',6],['5.8',12],['5.9',10],['5.10',72],['5.11',58],['5.12',48],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wild Iris

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wild Iris:
La Vaca Peligrosa   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   OK Corral : Right Side
Red Rider   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
Take Your Hat Off   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
Pocket Hero   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Erratic
Claim Jumper   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
The Devil Wears Spurs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall
Gaucho   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Zorro Area
Winchester Pump   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
Tribal War   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke...
Zorro   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Zorro Area
Hot Tamale Baby   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall
Rooster Cogburn   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   OK Corral : Right Side
Wind and Rattlesnakes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall
Diamonds and Rain   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   OK Corral : Right Side
Choke Cherry Eyes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Aspen Glade : Cowboy King Wall
American Beauty   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Aspen Glade : Cowboy King Wall
Cowboy Poetry   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
Court and Spark   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Lower Remuda
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Erratic
Atomic Stetson   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Main Wall : Rodeo Wave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wild Iris

Featured Route For Wild Iris
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the reachy 5.11 vertical section of Copen...

Copenhagen Angel 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  WY : Wild Iris : ... : Rode Hard Wall
This pretty line starts with thin pockets on a vertical face going around 11b. It is worth the ride alone, especially if the occasionally there lowering biners are in just before the roof. A couple big moves send you through the roof and sets you up for the last clip. The crux comes as you grope just above the roof and the holds shrink. Crank the bouldery powerful crux to land yourself on the vert slab above....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Wild Iris Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of OK Corral cliff band
Top of OK Corral cliff band
Rock Climbing Photo: Sodas in hand, dirt roads, snowy mountains, and wi...
Sodas in hand, dirt roads, snowy mountains, and wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Surveying Wild Iris at sunset.
Surveying Wild Iris at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: walking in the white irises of wild wyoming  summe...
walking in the white irises of wild wyoming summe...
Rock Climbing Photo: I came from Colorado, I don't have to heed the mud...
I came from Colorado, I don't have to heed the mud...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what happens when all of Colorado shows up...
This is what happens when all of Colorado shows up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main Wall & Ok Corral parking lot. May, 2014.
Main Wall & Ok Corral parking lot. May, 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild Iris sunset over the Wind River Range. July 3...
Wild Iris sunset over the Wind River Range. July 3...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of main wall from the trail heading from the ...
BETA PHOTO: View of main wall from the trail heading from the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The hike in. Beautiful high elevation meadows.
The hike in. Beautiful high elevation meadows.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Southern part of the Winds taken from near Min...
The Southern part of the Winds taken from near Min...
Rock Climbing Photo: This year marks the 20th International Climbers' F...
This year marks the 20th International Climbers' F...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful wild flowers near the Wild Iris...yes, t...
Beautiful wild flowers near the Wild Iris...yes, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leah on top of the OK Corral cliff. Tons of fossil...
Leah on top of the OK Corral cliff. Tons of fossil...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main wall from the tiered campsites at sunset.
Main wall from the tiered campsites at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: The main area of Wild Iris as viewed from the Zorr...
BETA PHOTO: The main area of Wild Iris as viewed from the Zorr...

Comments on Wild Iris Add Comment
Show which comments
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2007
Some bolts have been cut at Cowboy Poetry wall, but whoever cut them left the first bolt in place. I don't completely understand the intent of the bolt cutter, but I'm not a local. Sometimes the bolts really blend into the rock and are hard to see. This may be common sense, but make sure you can see the bolts and the anchors before starting any routes.
By India
Jun 28, 2008
There was a bear hanging out around the camp sites at Wild Iris this weekend. Please be aware, and extra careful with food, etc. in this area.
By Climbersfestival
Jun 3, 2012
climbersfestival.org/

Rock Climbing Photo: 2012 ICF Poster
2012 ICF Poster
By Climbersfestival
Jul 7, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: This year marks the 20th International Climbers' F...
This year marks the 20th International Climbers' Festival, and the celebration is going to be big. We have recruited a huge line up of presenters (Tommy Caldwell, Henry Barber, Emily Harrington, Timmy O'Neil, Expedition Denali's Erica Wynn, and Cedar Wright). Our clinic schedule features top athletes like Jonathan Siegrist, Audrey Sniezek, Eric Horst, Nick Duttle and many more! Though, the biggest anticipation of all is debut of the HIstory of Lander Climbing Documentary at the festival.


climbersfestival.org/tickets/
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
We took our first trip here in July 2013 on the recommendation of the Wild Iris climbing shop in Lander.

Hands down, this crag features the most gorgeous free car camping I have enjoyed anywhere. Check out the sites on the right side once you drive down the gnarly camping access road below the main pit toilet.

As for the climbing, relative to the tufa-filled Thailand limestone I have enjoyed before, the white limestone of Wild Iris was much more technical and generally kicked my butt.

If you like short, steep sport climbs with hand holds that are 80%+ pockets of some kind with mostly Smith Rock-style thin edges for feet, you will adore this place. If that's not your style, you'll probably hate it (at least at first). In short, it seemed like a polarizing place.

The "Main Wall" is definitely the place to be if the weather allows you to be in the South-facing aspect all day. A long, continuous section of walls there may challenge your route ID skills (as it did ours even given the "Lander Rock Climbs" guidebook), but will offer endless route days for for 5.10+ sport climber.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Aug 15, 2013
If you are a regular climber at Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, or any of the other areas around Lander, and you are also on facebook, please go to the Fremont County Climbers Coalition on fb. Either be a friend or "like" us. That is where you will get posting on the ups and downs of climbing in the Lander area... anything from access issues to grizzly bear sightings. The more people we have come to the site, the better we can get the word out to the climbing community. facebook.com/fremontcountyclim...
By Tom Gnyra
Administrator
Aug 5, 2015
A couple of forgetful Canadians here: we may have forgot a pair of black yoga pants at the last site before the end of OK corral. If you find them and would not mind mailing them to a US or Canadian address we will pay shipping. We are already in Jackson and cannot turn back really due to time constraints. If it has been eaten by a bear already I hope the bear enjoys it.
By William189
From: Denver, Colorado
Sep 5, 2016
Found: Bob Marley's Long Lost Grinder on Limestone Mountain's ridge.

On the way to opening some sick V-B bouldering problems (they are must do's; one problem even has a beer-nook for the move that requires two hands) on Limestone Mountain's prominent ridge, I stumbled upon Bob Marley's Long Lost Grinder reflecting the sunlight in between some lose rocks, dirty and spare grass. Please describe the grinder, and it's the aroma, especially the later in detail, so that I know it is really yours. Then, we can figure out how to get it back to you.

Happy climbing and other activities...