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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Wild Horses 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Al Rubin, Ivan Rezucha (1975)
Page Views: 1,811
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008

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Mike on P1 of Wild Horses. The little corner to t...


This is a really nice pitch, with nice moves in the lower crack and some cool pebble-pulling at the crux. More climbing can be had by beginning at the rightmost edge of the cliff bottom, as described in Gory Thumb. Most people TR P1 after leading Raunchy. P2 is rarely climbed, but is worth doing if you're comfy on Gunks 5.10.

Ivan Rezucha: I was walking along the base of the Trapps when Roy Kligfield called down and asked me to join the FA, saying that they were going for the record of most people on a first ascent.

P1 - (5.8 PG) Begin on the blank face as for Raunchy and climb up to the ledge and tree at 10 feet (or go up and left to access the ledge and traverse right to the right edge). Alternatively, start from the right-facing corner below (Gory Thumb) up to the same ledge.

From the right edge of the ledge, go up and right to an obvious thin crack in the middle of the nice white face. Climb the crack (small wires) and continue up the face getting any gear possible to a ledge below a pebbly face. Climb the face using the exposed pebbles, making cool pinch moves, up to a large ledge. Traverse left to the belay/rappel tree.

P2 - Climb the face to a bolt, then up a left- facing corner. Move around right to a stance below a face and fixed pin. Move up the face (crux, scary) to easier climbing, then continue straight up to the GT ledge and a tree belay/rap station. Probably want to bring bail slings for the tree because P2 is rarely climbed and the slings are likely to be old.


On the blank face adjacent to Raunchy, about 50 feet past the obvious slumped "Mantle" block of Dis-Mantel.


Standard Gunks Rack + small wires.

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By brian ivins
Aug 25, 2008

The crux takes one creative nut placement. Good luck.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 25, 2008

There were about 7 people on the first ascent of the first pitch. Perhaps only the 4 listed here continued to the top? Both of the Swain guides, Gray Dick, and Gunks Select all list only 4 FA'ists. Maybe Black Dick has the full story, but I can't find my copy.
Feb 13, 2011

The Black Dick only lists the (above) 4 on the FA.

I removed Tim's recommendation to set a gear anchor above the direct line of the route -- because I helped carry out an acquaintance who did exactly that, then leaned back and decked (luckily, no lasting injuries). He told me later that he'd placed 3 cams under a block that shifted. The blocks up there are rather large, so that was surprising, but - best just use the tree and a directional.
By Troy McCormick
From: New York
May 12, 2013

I thought the second pitch was great and definitely worth doing. A bit of steep climbing and good exposure up on the final face with great holds and protection all the way.
As of today the slings on the GT ledge rap anchor were fine. The tree itself, while still alive, is quite hollow and getting worked over pretty good by woodpeckers.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 27, 2016

P2 is a hidden gem. First 20+ feet are protected by an ancient bolt and a pretty old piton. Pro becomes more available as you ascend. Much fun face climbing. Rap from tree with rings and slings at top out. Walk over to the rap on top of Raunchy to get to the ground. 70M rope just makes it from the top to the Raunchy rap tree.
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
5 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

If you plan to do the second pitch make sure you feel very solid on 5.9. There is no gear for the first ~12ft and only a nail drive bolt and a rusty pin until the left facing corner at ~30ft. The climbing after that is sustained 5.8/5.9 face with good gear, but far apart.

The rap tree at the top had good slings but the tree is not healthy and questionably safe to rappel off. I just barely made it from the tree to the Raunchy rappel tree with a 70m and a pendulum to get back to the ledge.

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