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Wild Rock
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Delicatessen Ridge T,TR 
Four Finger Discount S 
Missed the Boat S 
Northway TR 
Problem Child S 
Red Headed Step Child S 
Trademark S,TR 
Wild at Heart S 
Wild In The Streets S 
Wild Thing S 

Wild at Heart 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lenore Sparks, Joe Crotty, Matt Reeser
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Season: Summer, Early Fall
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: lenore sparks on Jul 24, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Matt climbing.

Description 

Wild at Heart follows the seam, arete, and ultimately the prominent dihedral spiraling around from South Face of Wild Rock. Use the ramp, and clip the first two draws of Wild in the Streets to clip the draw leading to the crack. From here, we back clean the first two draws to minimize rope drag. I recommend a locker on the third clip. Now begins the wild ride. Jam the crack, and continue up and right through jams, horns, underclings, mantels, and stems. This climb has all of the moves. Long or double draws on clips 6, 7, and 8 will help with drag.

Wild at Heart is named after an epic David Lynch movie.

Location 

It is on Wild Rock's South face.

This gets morning shade, midday sun, and evening shade. Cleaning can happen in two steps - one from the anchor and the other from Wild in the Streets anchor. Sorry! The route is right-leaning. Or a follower can clean.

Protection 

10 draws and an anchor. If you are a bit timid, one can use a #3 Camalot in the crack.

The crack is gritty, and we were using tape or hand jammies.


Photos of Wild at Heart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Brown on the second send!
Jay Brown on the second send!
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Reeser on the first send.
BETA PHOTO: Matt Reeser on the first send.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lenore in the Ninja move.
 
 Photo by Tracy Hamm.
Lenore in the Ninja move. Photo by Tracy Hamm.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt in the Dihedral. It isn't over yet!
Matt in the Dihedral. It isn't over yet!

Comments on Wild at Heart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Redo
Jul 25, 2017

Looks like a beauty!
By Joseph Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 26, 2017

By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Jul 26, 2017

Sick route with low cruxes around the crack area. Sliding out of the jams will gobi your hands, but it's actually really smooth except for the top of the last jambs has a chip that's a slicer if you fall out of it. My favorite part was climbing on the actual arete! Who's going to attempt the direct line into the upper half? 5.14!?
By dameeser
From: denver
Aug 13, 2017

It's harder now that the chickenhead hold at the crux broke. It goes at 12d or 13a now.

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