Wild and Scenic Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||36.6982, -105.7077 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Mike Howard on Nov 11, 2007|
Jay Foley. andrewburr.com photography
The main cliff is known as the "Candy Store" and has the best basalt crack climbing in the region. Trad climbing splitter cracks and corners on perfect rock. Look for anchors at the top of each 30 m pitch for easy lowering and top-roping after you lead them.
Adventure Sport-Trad: This is no roadside sport area. Be prepared and equipped to scramble/bushwhack/wade/boulder hop/route find and get less done than expected. Head lamps are used more often than one would guess. Please use established trails (may be faint but often cairned). The hike out (~600 ft) can be the hardest part of your outing.
Getting to the Candy Store
Get the Taos Rock
book for the best description. The Wild Rivers Recreational Area north of Questa, NM has excellent camping, spectacular views and great access to the trad climbing at Questa Dome
as well as the riverside cliffs of this crag. There are also a few sport climbs up in the Red River Area
From Taos, follow NM 68 north 7 miles. Take NM 522 approximately 20 miles to Questa. Travel 3 miles past the stoplight in Questa to NM 378. Turn left onto NM 378 and follow the signs about 12 miles west to Wild Rivers Recreation Area. The Candy Store is accessed from the Bear Crossing trail. Descend this steep trail for about 10 minutes. At the river, travel north on the East side, for about 10 minutes.(watch for poison ivy!) The cliff is located on the west side of the river and crossing can be problematic. blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreati...
Here are some options:Depending on the river level (about 225 CFS) you can rock hop on the rocks just North of the cliff.If it is warm bring an innertube (or anything that can hold a pack above water) and it is easy to swim across. In low water it may also be able to wade across the sand bars directly opposite of the crag. The crossing is easiest in late summer or fall when the river is less than 300 cfs.
River Flow Information: River Flow Levels -- River flow levels are unpredictable, so climbers should monitor the USGS website, or contact BLM, for current information (USGS 08263500 RIO GRANDE NEAR CERRO, NM.)
USGS Water Resource Division - New Mexico District water.usgs.gov/waterwatch/?m=r...
BLM (888)882-6188 (Recorded Message)
Day-use parking and camping fees are required for parking in BLMs Wild Rivers and Orilla Verde Recreation Areas.
Boaters Info: blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreati...
Services, Gas, Beer, Food (Taquitos at the Wildcat's Den 2457 Highway 522 (575) 586-1119, mmmm) in Questa Guide Service
- Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.ht...
Climbing Season For the Taos Area area.
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Wild and Scenic
Kid in a Candy Store 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c New Mexico
: Taos Area
: ... : The Candy Store
Start in the chossy crack system just right of the main crack system. Climb up 15 feet and place adequate gear before stepping over left into the main crack system.The rock quality improves as you climb higher. The jams are steep but bomber. Near the top of the crack you will find the crux which is well protected by gear near your feet. Stellar line! On the kid. ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
May 20, 2011
This whole wall looked stellar...too bad I couldn't get there! The best place to cross the river looked to be just slightly up stream from the wall and I could easily hop across there but keeping the pack dry would have been hard. In my attempt to prove to my partner that a dry crossing was possible I took an inadvertent dip! You should have seen the smug look on his face.