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Wilbur's Tombstone
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Wilburs Turning in His Grave 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Duck, 1995
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on May 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Wilburs Turning In His Grave, 5.10d

Description 

Start up the blunt arete, and clip the first bolt. From here continue via a thin seam passing the 2nd bolt which leads easily up to the steep finish.

The meat of the climb is one very hard move past the 3rd bolt, reaching to a huge hold up and right (passed the 4th bolt).

The crux move is very high dependent, and can be easily avoided by moving slightly left at the 3rd bolt, then back right to finish.

Location 

This line takes the blunt northeast arete of the face.

Protection 

4 bolts with chain anchors


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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 25, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One move wonder climb, with one 5.10a crux move.
By datbro
Oct 12, 2013

@nelson day

bro, felt 5.8 to me so...
By Jacob Lude
Sep 12, 2016

First time ever leading on this route, not the best idea considering my hardest top rope is a 5.10b. Backed off at the crux and left behind an old locking carabiner to get down, because neither me or my partner could make the final moves.

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