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Probation Violation S 
Wiggly S 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Croft, Mazzarella 2001
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Abel finishing up Wiggly


IMO, not close to the five star Marty considers it. It gets some points for length, but some of the rock is pretty poor (though it will probably clean up w/ traffic), the line is a little vague at one point and the hard part is relatively run of the mill and brief (though rope drag may make it seem longer.) The slab ending adds some quality.

Between the 6th and 7th bolt careful routefinding may be required.

Two 100' raps to descend.


A little bit left of the left end of the Eldorado roof. Shares the first bolt with the much superior Probation Violation.


19 bolts. Some long slings are advised.

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By Jonathan Howland
Nov 4, 2006

I like this route more than Goldstein does -- as it has variety, length, and position -- and recall a crux some twenty feet (two or three bolts) below the marked one.
By Greg Barnes
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A 60m rope does NOT make it on this climb, you need a 70 or some simulclimbing. Cool line with some good rock and fun sections, but a poorly bolted section around the 6th bolt is not fun for the follower, and more importantly the 19-bolt pitch feels contrived. A nice small ledge at the 10th bolt or so would make a great belay station, and take the whole route down to 10c or so (10b first pitch, 10c second). I think making an intermediate belay station would produce a classic, exposed line that would see more traffic and clean up better.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 18, 2017

Did this one years ago, wonder if it's gotten any better? Also remember it feeling a bit sporty. Need to revisit.

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