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Wigglin' Worm 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,209
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Oct 28, 2001

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Wigglin Worm start

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An enduro fest! This route is 140' long so bring two ropes. This route is located about 20 yards to the right of Pente. It tackles a funky wide start (maybe a #5 camalot if you haul it up there but you can get aliens behind the flake a little ways off the ground) followed by a section of thin hands, to perfect hands over a roof, to wide hands for a long ways up the right facing dihedral. A funky wigglin' section caps the route (big gear not necessary).


    Lots of hand sized pieces ranging from #2 Friend through #3 Camalot. An Alien or two may be helpful for psychological pro behind the loose flake about 10' off the ground.

    Photos of Wigglin' Worm Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Spindloe a long way up Wigglin' Worm, but wi...
    BETA PHOTO: Peter Spindloe a long way up Wigglin' Worm, but wi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb approaching the top of the long and tiri...
    Tony Bubb approaching the top of the long and tiri...

    Comments on Wigglin' Worm Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2016
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 30, 2001

    This route is super cool. Keep looking into the crack on the way up and you will see some amazing crystal formations. Gorgeous.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 18, 2002
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Survey says.... This route is 125' long.
    The hardest single move for me was the OW at the bottom, which was awkward to get up. The chockstones at the back dumped sand when I tried to use them.

    After placing a "psychological" piece (psycho-illogical, maybe) behind the flake, where the height was becomeing questionably dangerous, the moves back off to 5.9+ until good gear can be had. Call this route 5.11 (solid, sustained) and 5.9+ R.
    By Rob Dillon
    Oct 1, 2003

    The widening splitter through the bulge just left of the route at mid-height is rad, and doesn't get wide like the top of WW. A cool step across accesses good hands. Natham Martin put this one up, or so I heard. I don't think this makes the route any harder, but you won't need anything bigger than a 3.5F for it either...

    I recall this having a plaque as of '04 or so?
    By Joe Auer
    From: Moab, Utah
    Apr 18, 2005
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Pulling the roof is not as tough as it looks. this route keeps coming at you. excellent variety for a splitter crack. May seem not as classic with Pente and Slot Machine so close by, but definitely worthy.
    By Rob T
    Sep 11, 2006

    70 m barely gets you down w/ stretch.
    By Stefanie Van Wychen
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 18, 2006

    This is a great route. I personally thought the opening moves were really easy - no wide technique necessary - but I did see people in our party making this section look really hard. You can get a good sideways undercling fingerlock (I won't tell you where, but you'll figure it out) - even for big fingered people - if you pull out on it as you're stepping up, your fingers lock tight, and you can high step onto the good feet and get finger locks in the back on the left............. I thought the top was strenuous, I layed back most of the wide part with the good edge, as my hands were too small for fists and I wasn't into stacking..
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    Mar 23, 2009

    Fantastic route! Great for smaller mits. Our 70 m did not reach the ground - bring double ropes.
    By greg t
    From: Chevy, Silverado
    Mar 18, 2012

    climbed this in fall '11, great route. Got on it again ( march '12 ) and the blocks 10ft off the ground are SUPER loose. Be careful.
    By Gary N
    From: Durango, CO
    Apr 1, 2013
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    No more blocks and/or flake right off the ground in the wide section. Still nice and dirty though. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect this section.

    This route is exactly 35m long. Our 70m made it back to the ground, but the knot at the end of the rope was against the belay device. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if using a 70m!

    Fun, interesting, and diverse route. Not an easy 5.11, as Tony B stated earlier, but certainly not runout.
    By Crag Turkey
    From: Holladay, UT
    Sep 9, 2015

    70m barely got me to the ground. This is a pretty involved climb, my favorite part was from the roof to the end. I felt like the roof pinched into a tight 2 Camalots to saggy #1 Camalots when you pull it.... but maybe I was just beat. I would say a # 6 is necessary unless that OW looks easy to you. #4 camalot can be used at the top, but only if you barely make it that far.
    By Big Bert
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Oct 7, 2016
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    #6 for the bottom. At least 4-5 BD #1's (I brought 5 #1's and was happy with the decision) for the +40ft thin hands section after the offwidth. 4-5 BD #2's and 4-5 BD #3's. No need for a BD #4. This route is non stop with a decent rest just before the roof and then a decent rest 20 feet after pulling the roof. A 70 gets you down with stretch - tie knots in both ends. If rapping from the rings, swing left and do a short rap to the chains on the alternate finish (5.12 finish). Rapping from the 5.12 finish anchors will get you to the ground safely with a 70 meter rope.

    Definite step up from Pente.

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