REI Community
Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hor D'oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Shrieking Eels T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Skip to the End T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wiggins II 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 7,437
Submitted By: Eric Whitbeck on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climber on Wiggins II

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The book describes the route as thin hands to tips, but it really goes thin hands to tips and then gradually widens to big hands. There is one drilled pin in the middle, right before the tips.

Protection 

tips to big hands


Comments on Wiggins II Add Comment
Show which comments
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Apr 21, 2009

Indian Creek has long been well-known for having quite a few "easy" 5.12-'s. Way Rambo, Nine Lives, Coyne Crack, Sig Sauer, Dos Hermanos, Annunaki, Middle Crack, Gurka, and so on. If you are looking for one of these easier routes to get that 5.12- crack on your ticklist, THEN STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM THIS ROUTE!

Excellent route, though, all the same.
By slim
Administrator
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

probably the perfect 12- benchmark at the creek. not the easiest, not the hardest, but surely the best. 5 star mega classic for sure - you need 2 ropes to get off, there are no ledges, the position is unparalleled, the climbing is brilliant. the best pitch i have climbed at the creek, and possibly the best pitch i have ever climbed period.
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Yes, this one is a beaut!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 29, 2014

In my mind tied with Sinestra for best route in the creek!
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
May 14, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

So good!! Hard sections for the people with big hands and for the people with tiny fingers. No escaping a crux of one kind of another. Loved it!
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Apr 7, 2016

Definitely the toughest 12- Ive been on in the Creek. Its good and sooo long

Good hands don't come till the anchor

Seemed:
45-50 feet 1s
25 ft .75
10 ft boulder problem at pin
15 ft .5
20 ft .75 to 1s
Good Hands to the anchor
By Robert Daniel.
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 19, 2017

I feel like I've climbed a fair number of 12-'s at the Creek, and this one felt like the hardest (and one of, if not the best).. Anybody have one(s) they think are harder y porque?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About