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White House Wall
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*69 T,TR 
Behind the Times T 
Bower's Crack T 
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Garfield Goes To Washington T 
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Susi's Garden T 
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Utter Butter on a Rope T 
Wife Sentence T 
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Wife Sentence 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Larry Shaffer-2000
Page Views: 1,285
Submitted By: Jason McNabb on Nov 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Tracie moving over to the crack near the top.

Check NPS for Closures


The route starts on the left side of the arete that is just to the right of the start for Garfield (same as Tap and Die). Climb up and traverse right on to the flake where the small pine tree is growing on the arete. Climb to the top of the flake and turn the corner on the arete. You come back left again at the final bulge before the anchors. The route protects well with small gear, but you get out from your pro a little bit at times. Save a blue TCU for the final section. As always, make sure your placements count on this one. Shares anchors with Tap and Die and Eric's route to the right. One of the best routes for the grade at Rushmore.....quality


Doubles on small cams #00 to .75 BD, RP's, Nuts, Runners.

Note: The flake in the middle section is hollow sounding and thin, probably best to protect with nuts as cams might shear or pull the thing off.

Photos of Wife Sentence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wife Sentence overturned.
BETA PHOTO: Wife Sentence overturned.

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By Andy Busse
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 12, 2008

Rated E for Everyone, as long as you take it when you get it, wife is good; beware, do not pass an opportunity if she is willing to give it up.
By josh balt
From: Hill City South Dakota
Aug 31, 2010

Good route. I went right on accident instead of strait up and left at the end. Try it sometime the traverse is hard then you will get to the end of it and wish there was some gear.
By Justin Compton
From: Lafayette, CO
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Don't underestimate this climb! A Wife Sentence it surely is... bold movements with some sketchy gear due to questionable rock in places, but if you take the time you'll find what your looking for. My fiancee eventually asked me if I was okay up there as I hadn't moved in quite awhile after announcing that I was 20 feet from the belay. I finally got a good piece in a little higher up the left corner from the arete and traversed up onto the anchor ledge, much humbler than before I started up the route. It would be quite a feat to on-sight this climb!
By Mark Rafferty
From: Rapid City,SD
Sep 8, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

By far one of my favorite 5.10 trad routes in the hills. I disagree with the PG13 rating. Gear all throughout just have look for it. 4 Stars!!

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