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Unsorted Routes:

Wiessner Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger and Hassler Whitney, 1934
Page Views: 6,499
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the slab to Weissner Crack


This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.

This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it.

Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.


Standard traprock rack. Wires, some cams.

Photos of Wiessner Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux
Just below the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down j...
Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope l...
Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...
BETA PHOTO: Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...

Comments on Wiessner Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes, climb the hole. It's rather spelunk-ish.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Jul 8, 2012

crux pro is outstanding.
By Kurtz
Nov 11, 2013

In Summer/Fall start in the cave/chimney! The change from enclosure to exposure adds to the fun.

In the Spring, there's usually an occupied bird's nest right on the back side of the slab near the opening. Climb the slab then.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Apr 20, 2015

So this is 5.8 and Carey's is 5,7+ huh...
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Nov 7, 2016

Looks like you need wide gear from the ground, but it actually tapers down to finger size. Don't need anything larger than a #2; bring small to medium sized cams instead of the big stuff.

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