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Wide Boy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,425
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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OW to perfect hands

Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting

Description 

A fun, mostly hand-size crack with a section of offwidth- to fist-sized. The start is a little tricky, particularly if you are shorter. The short offwidth section is a bit intimidating, but either liebacking or a bit of groveling followed by fist jams will see it through.

This crack gets sun fairly early, so it is a good one to start with on a brisk morning.

Location 

This right-facing, corner crack is located in the same alcove as Deface Crack and Red Warrior. There is a v-shaped chain anchor on the face just to the right of the crack.

Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.

Protection 

A #4 Camalot C4 fits the offwidth section, and #2.5 and #3 Friends for the rest (and I used one #2 friend as an oppositional piece at the start).

A three-bolt anchor at the top with a chain and a quicklink, although although only two of the bolts are connected by the chain.


Photos of Wide Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wide Boy 5.10a on Left, Deface Crack 5.10a on Righ...
Wide Boy 5.10a on Left, Deface Crack 5.10a on Righ...

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By Tanner Wise
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I TRed this and it was pretty enjoyable. the first move is a reach to a good hold. After that you can hand jam with the left hand and high step to a good ledge. then you stand up while holding onto a good hold and begin the lieback/offwith. I liebacked it up to the hand sized part. The hand jams are awesome with some edges on the right for your foot. I'll definately have to lead this once I build my rack a little more.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2014

Can be done safely with #s 1/2/4/4/2/2/2 Camalots. Might squeeze in a 3 somewhere if you wanted to. Very fun and strenuous for the length. Anchors are in a great location.
By grog m aka Greg McKee
Dec 13, 2015

Off width section was wierd but its not very long and there are great jams above it.

Pro: 4, 3.5, 1, 1, 1

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