REI Community
(2) Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Grab n' Go S 
Helm's Deep S 
House of Pain S 
Leisure Time T 
Night Owl T 
Redhorn Gate T 
Rude Boy T 
Variety T 
Why Must I Cry S 

Why Must I Cry 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jon Stewart, Mark Deffenbaugh
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Why Must I Cry


Really solid feet and wide ledges make for a route that's not terribly physically demanding, but what it lacks in pump-factor it makes up for with some interesting technical moves above bulges.

The first crux comes just above the third bolt as you move through a notch in a bulge. There are decent holds here if you fish for them.

The second crux is just below the anchors, where you're faced with an entirely blank looking bulge. You can go left here into the crack or for a more unique experience go straight up and mantle the bulge. I don't want to give it away, but it's not hard if you can find the right positioning.


Leftmost line of bolts in the Middle-earth area. In other words, the first line of bolts you'll encounter after taking the left fork in the trail. Look for a nice level rock at the base of a tree to belay from.


I've seen people place gear lower down here, but the climbing is easy enough that I didn't bother. I felt perfectly fine leading this on just the bolts.

Photos of Why Must I Cry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: FFA of Why Must I Cry by MarkD.
FFA of Why Must I Cry by MarkD.

Comments on Why Must I Cry Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is no need for gear on this route. The 1" placement the book notes is 3' below the next bolt on 5- rock.

Below the first bulge, you can either go right or left. I've found the right to be more direct and aesthetic. There is a run-out through easy terrain, past a tree, and up to a big ledge. Again, you can go left or right. I use the arete on the right. Climb easy blocks to the anchors.

Both of these choices seem to make the route easier and keep it 10a. But really, this route is just two moves, and I don't plan to do it again. Ever.

5 bolts + anchors. About 70 feet.
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The third bolt on this route is in an awkward position given either the left or right variation around the bulge.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Jul 18, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this today, and I think this is a pretty underrated route. I'm giving it a 5.9+, but only because it's somewhat technical; I think this route is easier than any other 5.9 bolted route at Ozone. Bolts are easy enough to get to, and protect all the difficult moves. Maybe it's a bit dirtier than other nearby climbs, but I think it's well worth a look.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is enough good movement to keep me coming back to it, though it is basically a warm-up climb. I don't know that the moves warrant the 5.10a grade but there is a pretty good distance between the last clip and the anchor which gets the heart pumping.
By Nathan Collins
From: Portland, OR
Apr 10, 2017

I think the 5.10a grade is warranted if you stay left of the bolt line.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About