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Whose Line is it Anyway? 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Bodensteiner, Mark Strege 2007
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Mark Orsag on Jul 15, 2017

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Right at the base of this route, you get this view...

Description 

Listed as mixed in Burr and Busse, this route will probably be done more often as a sport route. To climb the route this way, a stick clip is definitely recommended for the tough bouldery start pulling over the double roof sequence- which is the climb's 9+ crux. Work your way up, passing the first roof on smeary feet and good hands, to the steep side pull/layback hold for the left hand at the 2nd roof, reach over the 2nd roof to find the crimp rail for the right, bump the feet up,go way right with the right foot, reset on the rail, and gun for a second good crimp rail up and right; this is a big move. Pull over the 2nd roof and establish yourself on the slab. Much of the rest of the climbing is 7-8 ish, but there are two sub-crux 9 ish sections, one maneuvering between two iffy flakes, and a higher crimp/stem section. As with nearly everything at Rushmore put up by Mark Strege, bolts are plentiful and very well placed in all cases. Really like this climb. Great movement throughout!

Location 

Rubik's Ridge East of Road 45 feet right of Brian's Dihedral

Protection 

5 bolts. You could place gear at a couple of points, but it is hardly necessary. BB lists C3-0.5, nuts.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Whose Line is it Anyway? 5.9+. More fun power layb...
Whose Line is it Anyway? 5.9+. More fun power layb...

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