REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burns' Gulch 
Calling (aka Night Vision), The 
Dukes of Hazzard T 
Eureka Gulch Ice 
Fat City T 
First Gully T 
Goldrush T 
Goofy Gully T 
Highway to Hell 
Hoser's Highway 
Hoser's Highway Righthand 
Kleever, The T 
Middle Minnie T 
Minnie Mouse/ Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Niagaravation T 
On Ramp Slab Area 
Second Gully T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Tempered By Fire T 
Tempered Engagement S 
Unknown (far left on OB Wall) 
Unknown Scrappy Gully  
Waiting Line S,TR 
White Trash 
Whorehouse Hoses 

Whorehouse Hoses 


Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original: WI4-5 [details]
FA: Billy Roos and Sandy East, 1980s
Season: Winter
Page Views: 10,929
Submitted By: Meredith DB on Jan 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Me seconding up L side of Whorehouse. Indications...


The first pitch goes up a beautiful, wide, chandeliered tongue of ice to bolted anchors on the left (60 m). On the left side, the ice can be thin and undermined - better to stay to the right. WI 4-5, depending on the exact line climbed.

A short snow slog goes up to a small bowl (30 m).

The second pitch climbs a low-angle ramp of possibly thin, hollow ice to bolted anchors (up and right). 30 m, WI 3.

A longer snow slog leads up to a second bowl, where the climb forks (60 m). The left fork is easier.

Right fork: the third pitch climbs up more chandeliered ice to bolted anchors on the left. 50 m, WI 4-5.

Left fork: the third pitch climbs up a few short steps. WI 3. We did not climb this fork, so I can't comment on the protection at the top.


The Whorehouse Houses are on the right (east) side of the canyon, up Niagara Gulch. From the usual parking lot in Eureka, the climb is visible across the creek in the back of a deep chimney. Hike up the chimney/canyon to the base of the ice.


Ice screws. There are bolted anchors at the tops of the three technical pitches.

Photos of Whorehouse Hoses Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Do left or right or both.
Pitch 3. Do left or right or both.
Rock Climbing Photo: Entire climb visible.
Entire climb visible.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 right side.
Pitch 3 right side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping pitch 2, taken January 2017. There was ice...
Rapping pitch 2, taken January 2017. There was ice...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool cave at the start. The first pitch is just le...
Cool cave at the start. The first pitch is just le...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Leonard posing.
Ryan Leonard posing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whorehouse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping some laps on the R side.
Top roping some laps on the R side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whorehouse as seen from the approach.
Whorehouse as seen from the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Earlier party on 1/2/2009.
Earlier party on 1/2/2009.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3, right fork.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3, right fork.
Rock Climbing Photo: Going up snow to pitch 2.
Going up snow to pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whorehouse---1st pitch.
Whorehouse---1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Going up snow to pitch 3.
Going up snow to pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Whorehouse Hoses from the parking lot....
BETA PHOTO: View of the Whorehouse Hoses from the parking lot....

Comments on Whorehouse Hoses Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad Brandewie
Dec 13, 2007

More photos and a TR here:
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
Dec 13, 2007

Nice TR and pics....
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 5, 2008
rating: WI4-5

This is a climb that should not be missed. If you need another reason- it's on Guy Lacelle's list of the Top 100 Ice Climbs In the World! Conditions can vary so Id recommend being a comfortable WI5 climber to do it.

When I climbed it, the right finish had big gaping holes with water running down inside even though it was mid-winter and really cold. The bolt anchor at the top of the right finish is much appreciated as is the one at the top of P1 as belays would otherwise entail dicey tat or a lot of v-threads (equating to a lot of trash in the spring).

I guess I should add a safety note based on an experience I had on this last year. I tried to avoid a nasty slide down the steep little step in the stream bed on the descent after climbing (this is about 50-60 feet from the climb) and "craftily" stepped off the slick packed track to posthole down in soft snow. As I descended the step a large section collapsed under me into the running water of the stream in the gully! I fell on to the remaining edge of ice with half my body in the water. The rock was slick and with the water I was unable to extract myself. My partner realized what was happening and, grabbing my harness, pulled me out. We carefully approached the vertical gap in the step and tried probing for the bottom with our ski poles. Never located it. Id imagine falling all the way in would resemble a nasty crevasse fall or one of those stories of someone falling through a hole in an ice climb and dying of exposure. In retrospect its probably safest when walking over a running stream to stick to the packed path as it is always the firmest and hence safest area!
By "H" Lampasso
From: Manitou Springs
Feb 22, 2010

As of 2010 February 19 this was in fat! At least the first pitch was. picked a bad weekend to go. Avi danger started at considerable and went to high. High clouds in the early morning gave way to heavy snow and wind. We were getting nailed with spindrift from all angles, the worst coming down the climb itself. After getting knocked off by increasingly heavier spindrift we backed off. I bailed about 20 ft from the top of pitch one. Didn't need to get hit again! It was fun but starting to get a little out of hand!
By Martin le Roux
From: Superior, CO
Feb 14, 2012

Pitch 1 is a bit longer than 60m, at least on lead. We had to simul-climb for a few feet. Double 60s were fine on rappel.

As of Feb. 2012, the base of pitch 2 (the easy pitch) was a snow bridge above flowing water. We discovered this because my parter punched through when rappeling.
By Dave L
Jan 7, 2013

The left fork at the top has bolted anchors and is about 55m long.
By MattCranston
From: Ouray, CO
Mar 1, 2013
rating: WI4-5

Amazing first and last pitch (last pitch some of the finest conditions I have seen - Feb. 28,2013), but I would bring two 70m ropes - the first pitch is longer than it seems.
By eldoradolocal
Sep 11, 2014

FA sometime back in the '80s by Billy Roos and Sandy East.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About