REI Community
The Convent
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buddha's Delight T 
Choir Boyz T 
Girls Gone Wild T 
Middle Way, The T 
Renate Goes to Eleven T 
Two Hotdogs and a Hallway T 
Value of Audacity, The T 
West Face Dihedral T 
Whore House T 

Whore House 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sam Boyce, Mark Bowling
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Sam Boyce on Jun 30, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Start of P1

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Varied and fun climbing, needs to be cleaned up a bit. No bolts were placed.
P1- Start up the twin hand cracks, climb up the corner through a number of small roofs, eventually reaching a short easy chimney leading to a huge ledge on the left. Good belay in a tips to off-fingers horizontal up and to the left. 5.9 170 ft
P2- Some easy slab avoids some squeeze chimney weirdness, straight up an easy chimney to the base of a wide #6 splitter. Strenuous and steep wide crack (5.10 A0 or 5.11-) leads to a good fist crack/layback to a small alcove below a giant roof. 5.11- 110 ft
P3- Short pitch, possible to link with P2 pending rope drag. Up the stem box with a .75 crack to protect and assist to the underside of the roof. Height dependent stem out and pull out of the roof. Fun! 5.10 30 ft
P4- The roof pitch. Up an easy hand crack to a small roof, stem to assist. Easy and splitter hand crack leads to the base of an intimidating roof. Easier than it looks, and with good gear. A couple rotten bands follow and you end up on a huge ledge. Boulder belay possible. 5.10 100 ft.
P5- Short pitch to the summit, straight uphill a bit there is an obvious #4 crack with a roof/traverse. Climb the easy crack and traverse left to mantle, tree belay super far back from the ledge. 5.8 50 ft

Descent: From the top out, scramble south (towards castleton) to the high point, scramble down to the rim when possible and find a huge cairn (50-100 yrds from high point). Descent to the ledge right below the cairn, the first station for choir boyz will be obvious, Easy single rope rappels straight down.

Location 

Approach via the same road as for sister superior, about a mile up the wash there will be a sharp 90 degree right turn that can be spicy for smaller cars. Park right before this, follow the smaller side wash that converges at the apex of this sharp corner in the road (big cairn as of 6/30). Follow this wash for a short ways until it makes a sharp 90 degree right corner with another smaller wash continuing straight, follow this (another cairn as of 6/30). After a short distance up this even smaller wash break left to make for the ridge line taking care to avoid crypto. Once on the ridge line a faint trail will become evident. Follow the apex of the ridge all the way up to where you meet some cliff bands and the trail disappears. Go right up into the talus gully, and straight up the talus to the base, this bit kind of sucks, but its not too bad. Work your way near the base of choir boyz, obvious shallow left facing splitter corner. Rack up here and drop packs. Follow the base of the cliff over to the base of value of audacity. Work your way into the "tunnel" of a horizontal weakness that breaks left, crawl through and you will be at the base of west face dihedral. Continue left and crawl again. A couple more scramble moves will put you on a ledge at the base of the route. Unique and fun approach.

Protection 

6- 2 or 3, 5- 1, 4- 2, 3- 3, 2- 2, 1- 2, .75- 2, .5- 2, .4- 1, .3- 1, optional micros, single set of nuts, single 70 m rope


Photos of Whore House Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 2,3, and 4
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 2,3, and 4
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of VOA and the start of the crawl
BETA PHOTO: The base of VOA and the start of the crawl

Comments on Whore House Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Boyce
From: Changes with the seasons
Jul 22, 2016

I pulled on my 6 on the fa of p2, just FYI (still needs a redpoint). The pitch can go at 5.9 ow a0 with a couple 6's, or 5.11 free. Also, the thin corner just to the left would likely go with a few knifeblades.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Oct 27, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Wade Plafcan and I did the (possible?) FFA of the route today. The crux OW is about 5.11-. Pretty wild climbing with a decent amount of choss navigation required. This thing is pretty good if you've climbed alot in Castle Valley and are looking for something new to scramble on. Surprisingly small amount of sand, wear your hard hat. Rack: (1 each) .3 and .4, (2 each) .5 - #2, (3) #3's, (2) #4's, (1) #5, (2) #6, Alpine Draws.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About