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Wholly Holey S 

Wholly Holey 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,926
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 26, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: A ridiculous low bolt. A bolt before the second w...


This route is easy to find: hike up the main trail until you hit the cliff. You're now standing at the base of the route. Look for a line of bolts up a featured prow with a roof at the bottom, just right of the bolted pair of routes "Sloping Forehead" and "Ivory Tower". The crux is pulling the bulge at bolt #2 - a power move on good holds to a jug. The rest of the pitch is quite steep on a ladder of buckets. If the crux is problematic, it is easily bypassed on the right. Thank God for his many blessings as you enjoy this route.


Six bolts, two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Wholly Holey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sitting pretty above the roof.
Sitting pretty above the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wholly Holey.
Wholly Holey.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Wholly Holey.
Leading Wholly Holey.

Comments on Wholly Holey Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 27, 2004

I'm confused about a few of the "new Routes" you have posted. I have climbed them like everyone else in the world under different names for a long long time! What's up with that?
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 10, 2004

Is this a new line? I always knew this as an unnamed 5.7. Climbed this for the first time in '97.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Apr 29, 2006

Agreed... I did this route a few years back. I thought it was pretty poor back then, but now that I know the name - it's garbage. Keep the crusade to the church.
By Dave Fiorucci
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 24, 2007

I believe this is a newer climb that wasn't printed in Peter Hubbel's "Golden Cliffs" guide. I hear there will be updated guidebook coming this spring. The [second] bolt over the bulge is the crux; the rest of the climb has good holds, and feet.

I noticed that the hangers on the anchors are a little bit loose. One of the other photos on this page shows that they have the top-rope setup with the anchors backed up. I am not sure what their motivation was, but maybe somebody who knows about bolt safety should take a look.
By David Appelhans
From: Medford, MA
Apr 1, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route described is indeed a new route (at least it was not included in Hubbel's latest guidebook). However, the pictures linked to the route are actually pictures of Pack o' Bobs [Eds. now corrected], an old route just to the left of Wholly Holey.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought the reach for the "good jug" over the roof was rather tough. I kind of did it a bit recklessly based on the description looking for a jug and pumped myself out. I found it to be a long reach, and I would say as hard as some of the 5.9/5.10a roofs in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps it is easier for taller climbers, but I had to use a marginal hold before I could reach the jug. The rest of the route isn't particularly interesting or difficult. A one move wonder.
By Jon Underhill
Jun 21, 2009

David Appelhans is correct. This is a 'new' climb AND the pictures focus on Pack O' Bobs [Eds. now corrected]. The climb is immediately to the right of Pack O' Bobs. The TR line (running to the belayer) in the main photo for this page comes down Wholly Holey. The climber is going up Pack O' Bobs.
By Ryan Flynn
From: Maple Valley, WA
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this today (10.14.10) and found a loose bolt if anyone has the time to tighten, would be appreciated. I believe it was the fourth bolt.
By Grey Satterfield
From: Broomfield
Aug 5, 2015

There's a loose rock in the right hand side crack about halfway up the line. It has some chalk on it trying to spell out "NO", but it's not very distinct. Be careful!
By L Kap
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2017

The holds to get over the crux bulge are slick and polished. If you're tall, you can reach past, but at 5'7 I couldn't. Those moves were much harder than 5.8 for me, so I bypassed in the short chimney to the right.

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