REI Community
The Erratic
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpen Thunder S 
Big Medicine  S 
Blood Orange S 
County Ten Gunslinger S 
Fat Bottom Girls S 
Full Retard S 
Heart Full of Ghosts S 
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 
Medicine Man S 
Medicine Trail Relay S 
Moonshine S 
Pale Face Magic S 
Pocket Hero S 
Queen of England S 
Queen of hearts S 
Rodeo queen  S 
Soul man 
Swallow the Gravy S 
Throwin' the Houlihan S 
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 
Whoa Nelly S 
Wotai S 
Wutang S 
Unsorted Routes:

Whoa Nelly 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Wendt, 2002
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The opening boulder problem ends at a good jug abo...


This line makes for a fine warm up, with relatively big holds on steep terrain. However, the rock is not quite up to par for the area, and the movement is somewhat awkward.

Start on the left, slapping up opposing features to reach big edges over a rooflet. Hidden pockets lead to the arching flaking, and an awkward lieback on big holds along this flake works up to easier terrain and the anchor.


The next route left of the classic "Wotai", climbing the east face immediately left of the buttress.


~5 bolts, 2BA.

Photos of Whoa Nelly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Whoa Nelly climbs the left side of the buttress.
Whoa Nelly climbs the left side of the buttress.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the awkward lieback at mid-height.
Beginning the awkward lieback at mid-height.

Comments on Whoa Nelly Add Comment
Show which comments
By punkencack
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is actually pretty good, however, it is not rated 5.11b. Judicious stemming downgrades it to a straightforward 5.10b. In addition, much of the so-called awkwardness described above is non-existent if stemmed. Frankly, pretty much the bottom half of the route is a cinch if you use your feet. This is a good warm up for Wotai.
By Brian Fabel
Jul 18, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Start on the right side of the prow, punkencack

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About