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Forces of Nature T 
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Whiz Bang T 

Whiz Bang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Postlethwait, Matt Theilen 7/2003
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: DennisL on Sep 1, 2015

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Description 

The excellent second pitch of this route seems to have it all - balancey moves off bomber finger locks, finger-stacks with great feet, and glory hands to finish it all off!

p1 Up easy ledges and corners. Pass a roof to the right into a right-facing corner. Pass to the left of a nice ledge with 2-bolt anchor with chains, continuing 30' to a two-bolt anchor. Semi-hanging belay with your feet on sharp features and the bolts spread strangely far apart. This pitch could also probably end at the lower anchor. 5.9

p2 Step left from the anchor, then proceed up a sustained crack that varies from fingers to wide hands. 2-bolt anchor with suspect aluminum rap rings is directly in line with the p1 anchor.

Location 

40' climber's right of belay platform for Sons of Liberty/Pie in the Sky. We started the route slightly higher than those two routes start. The p2 crack has at least 1 wider (than hands) section that is apparent from the ground.

Descent: 2 raps w/ 60m.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"


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By matthoffman
Jun 27, 2016

1st pitch is kinda whack, but 2nd makes it all worth it.

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