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Whitestone Cliffs

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Athena Rock 
Lower Cliff 
Lower Lower Cliff 
Main Slab 
Right Side 

Whitestone Cliffs Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.62105, -73.05439 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurtz on Jun 9, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Whitestone areas (light blue = hiking trail, yello...

Description 

This crag is found in the Mattatuck State Forest east of Rt. 8. It comprised of five main crags. The rock is good quality gneiss with trad and TR routes ranging from 5.3 - 5.11. Climbers have been visiting Whitestone since the 1930s and as such many of the routes have long histories.

Getting There 

From Route 8 (North or South) take Exit 37 and turn onto Rt. 262 East. Cross the Naugatuck River and turn right onto Waterbury Rd. at the T junction. Take the first left onto Spruce Brook Rd. In 1.3 miles, look for a pull-off on the left that holds about 5-6 cars. GPS Coordinates: (N 41.61893, W 73.04962) .

BEWARE of the protruding rock in the center of the parking area!

Cross the metal barrier and head up a rocky jeep trail. After about 100 yards, look for a right turn onto the blue-blazed Whitestone Cliffs Trail . After a couple more minutes, the trail crests a rise and, as it starts downhill, takes a right turn (off the jeep trail) sharply downhill to a brook. Cross the small wooden bridge and follow the blue blazes uphill until the trail becomes a rock scramble (about 10 minutes from parking).

At this point, turn left and follow the wall for the Right Side climbs, the base of Main Slab, or the Lower Lower Cliff.
-OR-
Continue on the hiking trail up the rock and then take a left on a faint climbers trail to reach the top of Main Slab or Lower Cliff.

The approach is approx. 1/2 mile and it takes about 20 minutes to reach any of the areas.

Climbing Season

For the Western Highlands area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

61 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',20],['5.7',12],['5.8',16],['5.9',8],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Whitestone Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whitestone Cliffs:
Stone Age   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Slab
Romancing the Stone   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Slab
Tree Skirt   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Slab
Dreadlock   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Right Side
Structures   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Right Side
Nectar of the Gods   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whitestone Cliffs

Featured Route For Whitestone Cliffs
Rock Climbing Photo: Dreadlock . 5.8. Just lead this today, very nice, ...

Dreadlock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Connecticut : Western Highlands : ... : Right Side
Climb low angle face and crack until pulling through overhang at top...[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Photos of Whitestone Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 4. At the end of the Right Side routes, scramble u...
BETA PHOTO: 4. At the end of the Right Side routes, scramble u...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3. Trail "junction" (10 mins from parkin...
BETA PHOTO: 3. Trail "junction" (10 mins from parkin...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2. The turn most people miss.
BETA PHOTO: 2. The turn most people miss.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Parking area
BETA PHOTO: 1. Parking area
Rock Climbing Photo: The Whitestone Slab. Quality leads or TR'ing in th...
BETA PHOTO: The Whitestone Slab. Quality leads or TR'ing in th...

Comments on Whitestone Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Sep 25, 2011
whitestone is a real nice although smaller area, well worth a visit

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