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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984
Page Views: 4,046
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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From a tree belay a little the the right, chosen s...


Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.

Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. Rappel twice to get down.

This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!


From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.


Standard rock, you don't need much smaller gear, mostly tight hands to fist sized.

Photos of Whiteout Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9- sport direct start to Whiteout
5.9- sport direct start to Whiteout
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the corner you go left to the anchors
Nearing the corner you go left to the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary plugging pro on Whiteout.
Mary plugging pro on Whiteout.

Comments on Whiteout Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012

a single 70m makes it to the ground easily from the upper anchors- we rapped off right, i suspect a single 60m would get you very close, if not down all the way. worth checking, as the bolts at the top of the first pitch are in a terrible location for the pull.

also, the gods of re-bolting in the red should consider replacing the Metolius Rap hangers on this route with real hardware, and moving the first pitch anchors up about 6'.
By Alec Berghoef
Jan 30, 2015

Climbed this two days before thanksgiving as a night climb. Didn't go out onto the face and followed the right trending crack system all the way up to a tree and rapped to the ground. Really heady! Would definitely like ot do it again during the day.
By mzielin
Mar 28, 2016

A single 60m rope will reach the ground from the 2nd pitch anchors with about 10ft to spare. Anchors look new and in excellent condition as of 3/26/16.
By Nitrous Stone
Apr 19, 2016

if you start at the original start in the crack to the left of the tree it makes the first pitch pretty much a walk up the flake.(5.4) super awesome warmup before you follow the crack. make sure to go left when the crack gets skinny! plenty of good trees to rap off of if you crawl through the bushes above the anchors and admire the view. made getting to the second pitch with a 60m much eaiser using a tree directly above the crack.
By M.Ish
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We set this on TR with a 70 meter rope (for sure a mistake) there is horrendous rope drag and definitely made the belayer's job a pain. Great climbing and a decent route for a new trad leader looking to progress. Climbing is separated by great rests to place gear.
By MasterBeta
Jul 17, 2016

Pretty mellow for an 8. Could have probably combined pitches. great view from the top. well worth doing if you're in the area
By Jareddye
From: Lexington, KY
Nov 3, 2016

The route can easily be combined into one pitch if you start directly climbing the bolts (5.7). Otherwise the crack system to the left can be soloed to the ledge (5.4). The dihedral is the money pitch, 5 stars if it were longer. A 70m makes it to the ground with just feet to spare.
By Ian Flener
From: Louisville, KY
Apr 14, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Combine pitches, runners, medium pro.
Great view.
By Jarred Huist
May 2, 2017

If anybody lost/left gear at the base of the route on April 30th, contact me. my group left around 5 o clock and there were a pair of scarpa shoes size 11 mens, a grey two ogres chalk bag with M. books written on it and a newer size small black diamond harness. Also you might have my chalk bag, its a metioulous colorful bag.

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