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Emerald City
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Shelf Life 
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Whiteout T 
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Whiteout 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984
Page Views: 3,129
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Mary plugging pro on Whiteout.

Description 

Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.

Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. Rappel twice to get down.

This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!

Location 

From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.

Protection 

Standard rock, you don't need much smaller gear, mostly tight hands to fist sized.


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012

a single 70m makes it to the ground easily from the upper anchors- we rapped off right, i suspect a single 60m would get you very close, if not down all the way. worth checking, as the bolts at the top of the first pitch are in a terrible location for the pull.

also, the gods of re-bolting in the red should consider replacing the Metolius Rap hangers on this route with real hardware, and moving the first pitch anchors up about 6'.
By Alec Berghoef
Jan 30, 2015

Climbed this two days before thanksgiving as a night climb. Didn't go out onto the face and followed the right trending crack system all the way up to a tree and rapped to the ground. Really heady! Would definitely like ot do it again during the day.
By mzielin
Mar 28, 2016

A single 60m rope will reach the ground from the 2nd pitch anchors with about 10ft to spare. Anchors look new and in excellent condition as of 3/26/16.
By Nitrous Stone
Apr 19, 2016

if you start at the original start in the crack to the left of the tree it makes the first pitch pretty much a walk up the flake.(5.4) super awesome warmup before you follow the crack. make sure to go left when the crack gets skinny! plenty of good trees to rap off of if you crawl through the bushes above the anchors and admire the view. made getting to the second pitch with a 60m much eaiser using a tree directly above the crack.
By M.Ish
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We set this on TR with a 70 meter rope (for sure a mistake) there is horrendous rope drag and definitely made the belayer's job a pain. Great climbing and a decent route for a new trad leader looking to progress. Climbing is separated by great rests to place gear.
By topropetoughguy123
Jul 17, 2016

Pretty mellow for an 8. Could have probably combined pitches. great view from the top. well worth doing if you're in the area
By Jareddye
From: Lexington, KY
Nov 3, 2016

The route can easily be combined into one pitch if you start directly climbing the bolts (5.7). Otherwise the crack system to the left can be soloed to the ledge (5.4). The dihedral is the money pitch, 5 stars if it were longer. A 70m makes it to the ground with just feet to spare.