*Whitehorse Ledge Rock Climbing
Nice day for a white wedding
Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.
As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.
The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.
Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.
The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.
From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
102 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in *Whitehorse Ledge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in *Whitehorse Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for *Whitehorse Ledge:
Featured Route For *Whitehorse Ledge
Science Friction Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c New Hampshire
: *Whitehorse Ledge
: ... : Wonder Wall
So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the b...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
its all about light and fast these days... this is...
Whitehorse in Fall Color as taken from Cathedral L...
Rosie Andrews on her first lead .1972
L. Halupowski on P.1 of Dark Horse
Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt t...
BETA PHOTO: Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring ...
this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see...
A shot of Whitehorse from the road
Eric Fergen on lead, Inferno
Classic position at Whitehorse.....
May 16 and plenty of snow on Mount Washington.Phot...
Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board
BETA PHOTO: an overview of Whitehorse...
looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard rout...
the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledg...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2008
Today a friend and i did a really fun link up on the slabs taking South buttress of wankers wall 5.8R, to beginners direct 5.6R to a few pitches that dont seem to belong to any route to the right of standard, to the top... it was really fun!
after years on the slabs its fun to just go climb around and see what links up well...
try it sometime...
do you have any fave slab link ups...
By jimmi jazz
From: Denver co
Mar 15, 2010
went to whitehorse on the 4th of march an the bottom of ethereal crack looked like a war zone. there was a large rock fall sometime this winter.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Oct 17, 2010
a friend and i want to do a route here and im just wondering what is a Whitehorse rack.Im just curious about how many runners,slings and so on for this climb.nuts or cams.what works best.i have a set of 1-7 nuts
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 25, 2012
Here's a typical Whitehorse Slabs rack: a few draws, half dozen full-length slings, set of stoppers, a few cams from .5" to 2.5", and Tricams (to blue, handy in the many solution pockets). There's a lot of fixed gear on the popular routes and most of the belays are also fixed. The runouts are substantial (certainly on the easier routes) so go light on the rack---on many pitches 5.7 and below you may only be getting 3-5 pieces per pitch. But don't fear, the slabs are a friendly place and long, skin-grating slides are rare. Also, the walk-off is fast and pleasant and rapping may dump you right on top of other parties---please be considerate. Although it is possible to rap with one 60m rope, it takes a fair bit of cunning, so if you don't know the cliff well and plan to rappel, bring two ropes.
From: New Hampshire
May 29, 2012
Excellent comment Peter!
By michael sershen
Apr 8, 2013
We found a piece of gear near the base of Hotter than Hell. Maybe somebody dropped it when racking up or on rappel. PM me with a description if you want it back.