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White Trash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 7/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 19, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Drug Dome topo - slab on far right, under Hobbit B...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs unique, ledgey features for three long pitches. It is recommended that you go uphill a bit and scope out the two, small, right-facing dihedrals that are part of the first pitch. Also, it is helpful to spot the V-shaped groove with a lone pine tree at it's top which marks the end of the last pitch.

Pitch 1 - start about 50 feet right of Euro Trash and follow big, easy ledges up and right to a small right-facing dihedral. Place pro and climb to the top of the dihedral. Climb past two closely-spaced bolts(5.6) then up and slightly left for about 30-40' before traversing straight right back to another small right-facing dihedral and belay(#.5 Camalot, #1 Camalot, small stopper).

Pitch 2 - climb up to a bolt then go a bit right(5.7) and up to a big ledge. The pitch goes more or less straight up, but you will need to zig zag back and forth to link up small ledge systems to get pro and keep the grade moderate. You will find a second bolt about 150' up. From there traverse up and right and belay at a small crack system/ledge(#3 Camalot, 1/2" cam, small stopper).

Pitch 3 - climb up and left on small ledges for 30' to a bolt. Head up right then left to a second bolt. Now, head up and right to a third bolt. Climb up right(5.8) and then left into a groove. Continue up the groove for about 100' to the top.

The last pitch of this climb provides a nice, moderate finish to Euro Trash.

Location 

This route starts about 50 right of Euro Trash.

Either rappel Euro Trash of continue up Hobbit Book.

Protection 

Bring a full rack from stoppers to a #3 Camalot.


Photos of White Trash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drug Dome - white slab on far right (view from bas...
BETA PHOTO: Drug Dome - white slab on far right (view from bas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Drug Dome - white slab on far right (view from The...
BETA PHOTO: Drug Dome - white slab on far right (view from The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce drilling the second bolt on White Trash pitc...
Bruce drilling the second bolt on White Trash pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce starting p3 of White Trash
Bruce starting p3 of White Trash
Rock Climbing Photo: White Trash pitch one - shows the right facing cor...
BETA PHOTO: White Trash pitch one - shows the right facing cor...

Comments on White Trash Add Comment
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By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 24, 2015

Oops, I accidentally climbed this variation finish to Eurotrash last year, and I know I'm not the first or only to have done so. Just kept wandering up and right instead of doing the 10c/a0 section, then finished back left. It was runout with intermittent pro, so I'm sure the bolts will be appreciated (especially since the ending of Eurotrash makes no sense when the rest of it is gym-bolted).
As always, thanks for the hard work Clint and Bruce; look forward to checking these out.

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