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White Snake 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague - Sept /97
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: M Sprague on Jun 9, 2011

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Mag onsighting the 12b section of the climb. She l...


This is a left hand alternative start to Black Mamba that shares the same start as Anaconda Da-vida and King Cobra. Stick clip the first bolt or at least get a good spot as the very beginning can be tenuous, with a not so good landing. Mantel over the low roof to a shake, then tackle a bouldery crux to get situated on the lower part of the face. This was about 12a, but a hold broke, bumping it up a little. Remembering a left toe hook may come in handy to control the barndoor as you pop to a good sidepull with you left. A couple more moves will get you up to the seam that heads off left as Anaconda. At this point White Snake diverges from the other two routes by working to the right and up thin face holds, connecting into Black Mamba just under the roof. Be sure to use a shoulder length sling under the roof or you will get drag at the top.

This linkup offers varied, quality climbing and bumps the grade up a bit for when you have already done lots of runs on Mamba and have it wired to death.


Starts on the shared bolt line just to the left of Black Mamba


12 bolts to anchors. Bring a 2 foot sling for under the roof of Black Mamba and maybe a few long draws to reduce drag.

60 meter rope needed to lower. Watch the end while belaying, or better yet tie in.

Photos of White Snake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful Mag resting in White Snake.
Beautiful Mag resting in White Snake.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2011

ive been wanting to try this forever but the top is ALWAYS wet :(
By S. Neoh
Jun 9, 2011

Lee, you might have to wait till the Fall to get on. I have seen it dry then.
I did not realize you had the FA, Mark. No, I have not read every page of Ward's guide. :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2011

yeah, i should have done it the same day i did black mamba but even when it was "dry" there were wet spots... oh well, some day...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2013

Finally did it! perfect conditions! Bone dry and quite climbing nice :)

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