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Look for the goats to find the base of the route.
Kramar's guide calls this a "polished looking route." I would clarify that in many places, it doesn't just look polished, it is polished. Which is somewhat unexpected, given that it doesn't seem to get a lot of use.
P1 (160') Start up the blocky, dirty corner and follow it past the first tree with rap slings about 50' up. (Optional belay). Continue up past a couple of slippery but easy moves to a second tree, and belay.
P2 (140') Angle up and left on easier ground with poor protection to gain a left facing corner. Climb the corner past progressively trickier moves to gain a large sloping ledge, and set a belay below a short vertical wall split by a crack.
P3 (120') Climb the vertical wall and continue up a brushy corner system, passing a large horn. A short distance above, move up and right over a tricky bulge, then up an easy groove before exiting right onto the Country Club Ramp.
The route starts to the right of the white-streaked slab, which is itself to the right of the start of Outer Space. Look for a crooked tree, which may have rap slings, about 50 feet off the deck. The climb starts directly below this.
The route ends on the Country Club Ramp. Kramar's guidebook implies that you can link this up to Umbrella Tree (5.7) to top out. However we were unable to locate Umbrella Tree and chose to rap the route instead of topping out. It took 6 raps to the ground with a 60 m rope. You might do it in fewer raps with two ropes, but the risk of getting a rope caught would be significant.
There are some slings on the route, at the rap stations, but you should plan on bringing gear for anchors. We took a triple rack of cams from 0.75-3", plus a set of nuts, and a single set of smaller cams. This was probably overkill, but did make life easy with the long pitches and gear anchors. The route appears to see little traffic and you may want to bring some extra tat for reinforcing rap stations.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 27, 2015
Very nice description for this route, thanks.
About how hard is the PG13 part?
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 28, 2015
My recollection is that the gear for the 5.7 moves was ok, but there may be some 5.5-5.6 moves with less than ideal protection. There is a little loose rock on this route, and the cracks often contain some dirt or moss.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 2, 2016
It is slippery because it is a huge waterfall throughout the winter season, probably for at least a few thousand years.